Early Fall Gardening Tips from The English Lady—’Take Time to Sit and Watch the Leaves Change’

Posted on November 6, 2025 by admin

The colors of fall never cease to delight. LymeLine file photo.

Birches, Larches, Gingko, Oaks, Magnolia, and all flowering fruit and flowering trees as well as the Eastern Red Cedar. These trees have fleshy roots, and their feeder roots are not large when young and therefore take time to establish and are susceptible to frost heave.

Perennials that do not like to be planted in fall are Artemisia, Lambs Ears, Foxglove, Penstemon, Anemone, Campanula, Kniphofia, Lupines, Scabiosa, Ferns and Grasses.

Plant garlic this fall – garlic is the antibiotic of the garden. Plant garlic under fruit trees to avoid scab and root disease. Also, plant garlic near to ponds or standing water to control mosquito larvae or pour garlic water into ponds, bird baths and fountains to deter adult mosquitoes.

At this point I want to reiterate what Franklin D Roosevelt said in 1937; ‘the nation that destroys its soil destroys itself’. America has not heeded that warning. Precious soils in this country and around the world are being destroyed by dangerous practices in industrialized agriculture and poisonous chemicals, which completely disrupt our eco system and poison all living things.

THE HUMUS COMPONENT

To begin the process of humus, add composted manure like that pictured above, three times through the year. LymeLine file photo.

Good news for organic gardeners – in your own garden you can build and retain a rich growing environment by building the Humus component. We are all carbon-based creatures as is all life on earth. Not only humans but also our soil microbes need carbon to flourish. To attract carbon from the atmosphere is needed to build the humus component.

To begin the process of humus – add composted manure three times through the year – early May, July and now in October. Manure builds soil structure and provides a rich planting environment for the following season by encouraging the millions of soil animals down below to manufacture nutrients for the roots of the plants.

Plus add mulch in the form of natural brown fine bark mulch or wood chips that you produce from your garden – aged wood chips with a combo of leaves, twigs and branches.

With manure and fine bark mulch, you are building the humus component. The manure and mulch attract carbon from the air, which builds the richest organic planting environment – the humus component.

Mulching the garden, and particularly any plants planted, divided or transplanted this fall with two inches of fine bark mulch, when the ground to cools in late October, the mulch will keep warmth and moisture in the soil and protect the roots of your plants through the winter.

You are probably asking what are the benefits of humus?

Humus acts like a sponge and holds 90% of its weight in water.

Because of its negative charge – plant nutrients stick to humus with nitrogen, calcium, phosphorus and other elements, which prevents these from washing away, and acts as nature’s slow- release fertilizer.

Humus improves soil structure, making it loose and friable, which helps plant roots move through the soil which makes for better access to nutrients, water and oxygen.

Humus also helps filter’ toxic chemicals from the soil, much like carbon-based water filtration systems that filter toxins from your water.

We cannot control industrialized agricultural practices – but in your own garden you can make a difference. Grow the soil organically and the soil will grow the plants.

Mulch and peat provide acidity, which is particularly important for any newly planted broadleaf evergreens installed in September. As previously mentioned, evergreens are shallow rooted and can heave above ground in hard frost. I suggest that you store a few bags of topsoil and mulch in the shed or garage. When you see exposed roots after frost heave, cover them with the soil and mulch until the plant can be resettled next spring.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

This splendid vegetable garden was featured on an Old Lyme Garden Tour several years ago. LymeLine file photo.

Now let’s look at what should be done right now in the vegetable, first focusing on cover crops. Last week I cut down the finished crops in the vegetable garden and incorporated them lightly into the soil.

This year, my choice for a cover crop in one area of my vegetable garden is Alfalfa, which has 3.4% nitrogen content. On the opposite side of the garden, I will plant Buckwheat, which has 1.4% nitrogen content which provides nectar for beneficial insects. Then I cover the seeds with organic composted manure.

There are many cover crops to choose from; I use white clover and rye grass in alternate years. In spring when the earth is workable that is, not too wet or cold, the cover crop is turned into the earth as ‘green manure’.

There is nothing better than your own homegrown organic vegetables – good for you and for the environment.

The less hectic pace of fall provides an opportunity to rethink your gardens. The garden’s pre-winter grooming can wait for a few weeks. You may feel that you would like a professional design, having thrown good money after bad and nothing looks right.

If that is so then contact someone that you trust to work with you to create a plan in the fall and winter, which can be phased in next spring. Engage someone who will listen to your wants and will stay within your budget. My son, Ian of Landscapes by Ian.com, always says ‘it is not what you do in the garden, but how it makes you feel’.

SPRING BULBS

Early November is the time to plant spring bulbs. When purchasing Daffodils, choose early, mid- season and late blooming Daffodils, by doing so you will have a succession of bloom. Be adventurous this year and go for masses of a single color for the greatest impact. No matter how small your planting area, it is the intensity that counts, with two or three dozen red Tulips or a hundred Daffodils planted on your woodland edge.

Buying daffodils in large numbers is less expensive, it’s true the bulbs are usually smaller but that is not a problem because daffodil bulbs grow larger each year they are in the ground. Even though many say that the bulbs should be spaced six inches apart, there is no reason they cannot touch one another.

Apply some composted manure or bulb food on the soil where bulbs are planted. Wear gloves when you plant bulbs as they contain a skin irritant, which may cause a rash.

The general rule is to plant bulbs about three times as deep as the bulb is tall and with the pointed end up. This method is appropriate for most bulbs although tulips should be planted about twelve inches down if you want to produce bloom for a second year.

Daffodils should be planted no less than nine inches down, which is below the frost line. I suggest that you do not plant the bulbs singly for the most colorful impact, but plant in groups of odd numbers, 5,7 or 9 bulbs as odd numbers are harmonious in nature.

Think Spring! Plant bulbs now to enjoy a display like this one next year. LymeLine file photo.

Small bulbs like crocus can be tossed gently into a shallow trench with composted manure on the bottom of the trench, about three inches deep and plant them where they land, pointed side up. For larger bulbs like tulips and daffodils dig a trench about nine inches deep and three or four feet long with composted manure as the base and scatter these larger bulbs in the trench, also so that the pointed end of the bulb faces up!

Personally, I treat Tulips as annuals because their first year’s bloom is the best, after that first year the bloom is never as full and vibrant; the only exception to this is the parrot tulip, which I find, flourishes for years.

A word of caution -Tulips are the ‘caviar’ of the bulb family. The best method to prevent them from becoming tasty items on the rodent’s menu is to soak them in an organic deer repellent, which also repels rodents. Allow the tulip bulbs to dry before planting.

If you are unable to plant your bulbs immediately when purchased, keep them in a cool, dry place in paper bags. The best time to plant spring bulbs in the Northeast is in mid- November.

Observe Mother Nature; plants in nature do not grow in straight lines but in gentle curves that connect harmoniously with the earth.

TREE WORK

Ghoose a licensed arborist. This work is much less expensive to have done in the fall after the foliage has fallen, then the arborist is able to see more clearly what needs to be done and the work goes faster – meaning less labor time and therefore is less expensive.

If you have deep shade and want more sunlight in an area, ask the arborist to thin out the tree’s canopy and prune lower branches to make for a sunnier area, this will give you more choice of plants, that grow in dappled rather than deep shade.

If you have a badly damaged tree, meaning over 50% damaged or diseased, then have it removed, which may allow for a sun garden or perhaps the vegetable garden you have always wanted.

PERENNIALS

I do not cut my spent perennials to the ground in fall but leave them up so that I am able to enjoy the browns, grays, yellows and faded greens, which blend gently with winter’s muted landscape. The seed heads of the perennials are also wonderful snacks for the birds and in the dead of winter, what better sight than a red cardinal on the Winterberry bush in the snow.

Also wait until next April to cut down ornamental grasses; their graceful foliage is lovely to enjoy with the icicles on them shining in the pale winter sun.

However, on perennials, any spent perennials that show disease should be cut down but if the plant is more than one third diseased it should be dug up and discarded. Then throw the diseased material in the garbage not in the compost. Clean up any fallen plant debris from the soil and ONLY if it is disease and weed free, can it be added to the compost pile.

Prune peonies in November to enjoy blooms like these next May. LymeLine file photo.

Peonies – In November after the first hard frost, cut down peonies to within six inches from the ground and add some composted manure around the base of the plant.

SIGNS OF FROST

You can foretell a hard frost when you notice the afternoon temperature falling fast under a clear sky. Assess the wind by taking a long strip of plastic, like a shopping bag from the supermarket, and hanging it from a tree branch. If the bag flutters about a foot in either direction, you do not have to worry about frost, but if it blows vigorously then frost is on the way. If you still have plants in the garden that are of concern, cover them with salt hay, newspapers or lightweight old quilts and put a brown paper bag from the grocery store over smaller plants like herbs, anchored down with rocks.

Your houseplants should be indoors now. After their summer sojourn outdoors, wash the pots thoroughly and add fresh potting soil. Then replant the plant at the same depth it was at originally and into the sink or shower and allow water to wash the foliage and water the plant well. If the plant has outgrown its pot, transplant it to the next size clean pot, only one and a half inches larger.

Enjoy the pleasant Fall weather and if you have any gardening questions, feel free to email me at MaureenHaseleyJones@gmail.com and I will see you in your garden in November.

About the author: Maureen Haseley-Jones is a member of a family of renowned horticultural artisans, whose landscaping heritage dates back to the 17th century. She is one of the founders, together with her son Ian, of The English Lady Landscape and Home Company. Maureen and Ian are landscape designers and garden experts who believe that everyone deserves to live in an eco-conscious environment and enjoy the pleasure that it brings. Maureen learned her design skills from both her mother and grandmother, and honed her horticultural and construction skills while working in the family nursery and landscape business in the U.K. Her formal horticultural training was undertaken at the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew in Surrey.

‘When it Gets Crisp in the Fall’: Gardening Tips for September from ‘The English Lady’

Posted on September 26, 2025 by admin

“Life starts all over again when it gets crisp in the fall.” – F. Scott Fitzgerald, The Great Gatsby

The colors of fall will soon be all around us. LymeLine photo.

Rain through August has been rather sparse. That said, our gardens need rain.

In the meantime, if you are planting evergreens this month; September is the best time to plant evergreens in our zone. Evergreens planted now can begin to establish strong roots before winter and it is important to give the new evergreens a good amount of water. I suggest you make a hole in the soil with an iron stake or other piercing instrument, then feed the hose into the hole and allow water to reach the roots slowly for at least a half hour and continue with this method a few times a week until the ground freezes in November.

Cover the earth around the plants with a light layer of composted manure and mulch. Do not apply mulch right up to the trunks of the plants as this encourages rodents to gnaw on the bark of the plants.

Hydrangeas

I am often asked questions regarding the pruning of hydrangeas, with fellow gardeners asking, “Maureen, why did my Hydrangeas not bloom this year”? The reason that hydrangeas do not bloom is that gardeners prune them at the wrong time. If you feel that your Hydrangea macrophylla has become too large and require pruning, prune them by mid-September.

The reason is that hydrangeas set their buds for next season by late September; pruning any later will cut off those buds, which will negate any chance of bloom for next season or even the following season.

How to accomplish pruning successfully:
This month, prune any old woody stems that have not bloomed well and any weak new shoots. After pruning, apply a few inches of composted manure, and some peat, followed by a top dressing of natural brown bark mulch. Peat aids acidity in the soil, which is necessary as Hydrangeas may become chlorotic if the soil is too alkaline. Chlorotic means abnormal reduction or loss of normal green coloration of the leaves of the plants.

Another important note on this plant is that hydrangeas do not like to be transplanted; transplanting them can result in little to no bloom for many seasons. For that reason, I suggest when planting new hydrangeas, make sure they are at least five feet apart, so they have room to grow, receive adequate ventilation and will therefore never need to be transplanted.

Take a Break to Contemplate

This fall, as you contemplate your landscape, think about the past season and what worked for you in your garden and what you will never try again.

One thing I will never forget is that mint took over the border beneath my Franklinia tree. Many years ago, my friend Roz, was kindly lending a hand in the garden and planted mint in the garden instead of a large container that I placed for that very purpose.

Mint grows vigorously wherever it is planted. It is always best to control its growth by planting it in a container. LymeLine photo.

I was busy with other garden chores, so by the time I noticed the error six months later, the mint was running rampant among the blue myrtle edging the borders. So, folks please take note that mint is extremely invasive and should only be planted in containers where its wayward habits can be controlled.

‘It is said that ‘a gardener’s work is never done’, but now with the season’s hard labor behind you, take a break. Sit outside and inhale the late garden fragrances and allow Mother Nature to anchor and relax you.

In the early morning, I enjoy sitting on my patio near the herb garden, inhaling the fragrance of the sage, which I will snip later to take indoors for drying and use in my recipes. I will also gather extra sage and lavender, which I will tie with string into small bunches to hang in my closets, which is a natural moth repellent. Some of the Lavender bunches I tuck into my drawers to keep moths from devouring my woolen garments, this works well as insects do not like fragrance.

In the less hectic pace of fall, early autumn is the time to re-think your gardens. The garden’s pre-winter grooming will wait for a few weeks. You may feel that you would like to have professional design as you have noticed that your borders are not up to your expectations.

If that is so, then contact someone that you trust to create a plan in the fall and winter, which can be phased in beginning next spring. Engage someone who will listen to your thoughts and stay within your budget. That being said, I respectfully offer a suggestion for a plantsman, whose company and website is LandscapesByIan.com. In the interests of full transparency, he is my son and I am confident you would enjoy speaking with him.

In your vegetable garden, sow spinach for spring harvest and sow a cover crop like winter rye, which can be dug in next spring together with composted manure as green manure. Green manure produces a rich growing environment for next year’s vegetables.

Now is the time to get your fall compost pile cooking with the last of the grass clippings, spent perennials, leaves and small woody twigs.

Perennials

Peonies need careful attention to create a stunning display like this. September is the month to plant and transplant them.

Also in September, dig up, divide and replant overgrown perennials. Follow this method every three to four years to ensure vibrant bloom from these plants. Never plant or transplant any division or transplant any deeper in the soil than it is now or any deeper than the plant sits in the pot.

September is the month to plant and transplant peonies. Do not plant them deeply or they will not bloom, that means having just enough soil to hold them erect with the ‘pink eyes’ on the roots barely covered. Plant them with a light application of composted manure around the plant. Then in November, following the first hard frost cut down the peony foliage to about four inches from the ground.

Fall’s brilliant autumn finery is the last hurrah, before winter sets in. LymeLine photo.

In a few weeks, the bright vibrancy of autumn color will appear on the maples. Fall’s brilliant autumn finery is the last hurrah, before winter sets in. Climbing up the red milk shed near the barn, the buds on the autumn clematis are beginning to unfurl and in the herb garden, autumn crocus, asters and sedum will take their curtain calls.

For your soil to remain healthy, add a light layer of composted manure to all the borders now or in early October, together with a two-inch layer of fine bark mulch around to all newly planted and transplanted perennials and shrubs. With the application of the manure and mulch you are continuing to build the humus component, which will ensure a rich growing environment for spring and protect the plants from winter’s harsh conditions.

I do not cut down my spent perennials but leave them up for the birds; the ripened seed heads are a delicious treat for them to peck at. Following the vibrancy of summer bloom, I enjoy the softer subtle colors of gray, brown and yellow of spent perennials and ornamental grasses blending naturally with the muted winter landscape, which to me offers a resting of the senses.

Early to mid October is a great time to be planting. The benefits of fall planting for trees, shrubs and perennials gives them a head start with root development over those planted in the spring. This is especially so when we experience late spring when planting cannot begin until late April. In New England’s fall, the cooler temperatures and still warm soil encourage the plants to direct their energy into producing strong roots.

The following trees are not good candidates for fall planting: birches, larches, gingko, oaks, magnolia, and all flowering fruit and flowering trees as well as the Eastern red cedar. These trees have fleshy roots, and their feeder roots are not large when young and take time to establish and are susceptible to frost heave.

Some perennials that do not like to be planted in fall are Artemisia, Lambs Ears, Foxglove, Penstemon, Anemone, Campanula, Kniphofia, Lupines, Scabiosa, ferns and grasses.

Plant garlic this month for harvest next June. Garlic is the antibiotic of the garden. Plant it under fruit trees to avoid scab and root disease, near to ponds or standing water to control mosquito larvae or pour garlic water into ponds, bird baths and fountains to deter adult mosquitoes.

End-of-Season Bargains

This is a good time to pick up end of season plant bargains. Most nurseries and garden centers have lowered their prices, so they do not have to winter plants over in the nursery. If you do purchase a few plants, keep your eyes open for the following problems:

Potbound pots

Check the bottom of the pot to see if the roots are growing through the holes. If not, gently tap the plant out of the container to see if it has a network of overlapping roots that wrap around the root ball. It is possible to salvage a root-bound plant, which is suffering from water and nutrient deficiencies over the summer, but it will be slow to root.

Before you plant this one in your garden, cut the encircling roots – the roots will now be shorter but will take root easier.

Diseased Plants

Plants that have been in containers all summer and have been fed high nitrogen fertilizers are easy targets for pests and diseases. Check for spots on the foliage, wilted or curling leaves and discolored roots. As well as visible signs of pest damage and infestation such as webbing or sticky residue on foliage. Not only would these plants do poorly in the garden but could infect your other plants and the soil. Soil-borne diseases are the most difficult to deal with.

Badly shaped plants

Badly shaped plants are the Charlie Brown Christmas trees of the plant world, the unwanted orphans that have been passed over year after year; these are the runts of the litter! Do not set yourself up for disappointment looking at an ugly tree or shrub just to save a few dollars.

Mislabeled plants

At the end of the season many plant tags have been lost or mixed up, which means you are likely to get a perennial with flowers that are not the color you expected. Or you may buy a deciduous tree or shrub when you are looking for an evergreen variety. Stick to the plants that are part of large displays of identically labeled plants or with labels so firmly attached that look like they have been there for a while.

With all the above-mentioned plants – always add composted manure around the plant and do not plant any deeper than it is in its pot or burlap wrapping. Always wear gloves when working with manure; there is bacteria in the manure – great for the soil but not healthy for you.

Please note that the bargain you get is often not worth the discount price.

New Lawn or Patch Seeding

September is an excellent time to plant new grass so the young grass plants will have the advantage over weeds. Do not buy cheap seed, you reap what you sow!

Gently de-thatch the areas that you wish to overseed or patch. Do not use the large thatching machines, which can damage existing grass. Add some composted manure to the area, broadcast the seed and cover the newly seeded grass area with salt hay (free from weed seed). Do not allow the soil surface to dry out; keep it moist. Water gently, and do not saturate the area or the seed will wash away.

When the grass appears, stay off it. Do not mow and leave the salt hay to rot. Next spring, a healthy lawn will emerge and if there are a few bare patches in April, you can fill in the bare spots.

In terms of bulb planning, The English Lady recommends, “Go for masses of a single color for the greatest impact.”

I hope your spring bulb orders are in by now. Be adventurous this year and go for masses of a single color for the greatest impact. No matter how small your planting area, it is the intensity that counts, with two or three dozen red tulips or a hundred daffodils planted on your woodland edge.

Buying daffodils in large numbers is less expensive. The bulbs are usually smaller, but this is not a problem as daffodil bulbs grow larger each year. Even though many say the spacing between these larger bulbs should be six inches, there is no reason they cannot touch.

Put some composted manure or bulb food on the soil where the bulbs are planted. Make sure you plant the daffodils eight inches below the frost line, with the pointed end up. Wear gloves when you plant bulbs as they have a skin irritant, which may cause a rash.

If you cannot plant your bulbs when you receive them, store them in a cool, dry place in paper bags. The best time to plant spring bulbs in the Northeast is the end of October to the middle of November.

Lily of the Valley can be transplanted this month but wear gloves because there is toxicity in this plant.

Dig up your gladioli corms, calla bulbs, elephant ear bulbs and dahlia tubers when the foliage turns yellow. Lay them in the sun to “cure” and store them in a cool, dry dark place. When you dig the dahlia tubers, do not pull them, as pulling can break the tubers.

In September after their summer sojourn outdoors, take your houseplants indoors and wash the foliage gently and repot with new potting soil into a clean container. Repot those plants that have outgrown their pots to a clean container that is only one size larger.

Fall and early winter is a great time to do stonework – dry laid paths, walls and patios. As well as repairing fences, arbors and pergolas and building decks. Paint wooden outdoor furniture with eco conscious paint before putting them undercover for winter.

September is a gardener’s paradise; the air is cooler, the soil easy to work and you will not overheat with the effort. Stay awhile in your garden; enjoy the comforting fragrance of fall.

I’ll see you in your garden next time.

Email me with gardening questions at MaureenHaseleyJones@gmail.com.

Late Summer Gardening Tips from The English Lady—“August is Like the Sunday of Summer.”

Posted on August 15, 2025 by Maureen Haseley-Jones

Summer flowers can offer contrasting colors. All photos by LymeLine.

Watering is so important during the heat of summer. If you planted trees or shrubs this spring, particularly evergreens, these plants require extra moisture to establish a strong root system. We have had an abundant amount of rain this spring and into the summer, however it is important to keep an eye on the weather.

Here in New England, plants require at least an inch of water per week. If you are using a regular hose, you lose 40% of moisture to evaporation. However, a hose is necessary for thorough watering when a plant goes into the ground and daily watering for containers.

Soaker hoses in your borders are the best method of watering, attached to a house spigot with a timer. By using this method of irrigation, moisture goes to the roots of plants where it is needed and not on the foliage, which can cause diseases such as black spot and powdery mildew. Soaker hoses attached to a timer can be used efficiently not only in the borders of the garden but also in the vegetable garden, where annual vegetables require a lot of water to produce a good crop.

In addition, composted manure when added to the containers together with copious amounts to the vegetable garden, helps to retain a good amount of moisture. Manure, used as mulch for the vegetable garden, adds more nutrition and manure used as mulch does not cap or form a hard crust, so water goes directly to the roots where it is needed.

LAWNS

Water the lawn only when the green glow begins to fade. An established lawn will bounce back following dry hot spells.

SOIL

I want to emphasize the importance of soil and soil health, which has been severely neglected and abused with poisonous chemicals for years. Soil is the most important element of plant growth; it is not an inert medium that merely holds the plants erect, it is a living organism that needs to be replenished with nutrients.

The nutrient is composted manure; manure builds soil structure and together with its bacteria joins the millions of microbes below the surface to produce nutrients for the roots of the plants. If you have not already done so, I strongly suggest that you carefully discard all chemical fertilizers, herbicides and pesticides.

The addition of composted manure to your soil in spring, early summer and in early fall, together with natural brown bark mulch, builds the carbon compound or humus component in the soil. We are all carbon-based creatures, as is every living element; carbon is our lifeblood and the lifeblood of the soil in our gardens.

As we build the humus component by adding composted manure and fine-bark mulch, we are producing the healthiest possible growing environment and the strongest disease resistant plants.

As we add the composted manure and natural fine bark mulch season after season, the humus component continues to build in the soil, continuously extracting carbon from the atmosphere into the soil.

ROSES

Roses flourish beautifully with the addition of composted manure and mulch, which should be applied on the soil about two feet away from the base of the plant. Roses also require deep watering once a week. Now, in July add another light layer of composted manure around the roses. Manure is food for the roots of the roses and no other products are necessary for growth and bloom.

Stop adding manure to the roses in mid-August, so that they can gradually move into a slow dormancy through late summer and early fall, this is a natural part of their growth cycle.

If you are a first-time rose grower or adding to your rose collection, David Austin English roses are my personal preference. The David Austin nursery is only twenty-one miles from my hometown in Shropshire in England. Visiting the Rose nursery in June was a fragrant and exhilarating pleasure that overwhelmed my senses.

David Austin roses are more trouble-free than many other roses and with the fact that they are repeat bloomers, with beautiful colors and fragrances extends our enjoyment of this lovely shrub throughout the summer months.

Some of my favorite David Austin roses are:

A Shropshire Lad, a peachy pink
Abraham Darby, soft shades of apricot and yellow
Evelyn (my favorite) produces giant apricot hued flowers
Fair Bianca, a pure white
Heritage, a soft blush pink
Carding Mill Valley begins as a peachy orange double flower, changing to an apricot-pink

A lovely combination is climbing roses and clematis planted together; both enjoy the same planting environment with their heads in the sun and their feet (roots) cool, with the added nutrition of manure and mulch. This combination looks great, climbing over a fence, wall or arbor. The combination I enjoyed, was a purple clematis and a pink climbing rose, which I planted on a trellis on the old stone chimney breast of my farmhouse.

It is of the utmost importance to stop feeding roses right now, in August. The reason for this is that roses require at least nine weeks to gently move into slow healthy dormancy before the first frost arrives.

In my September tips I will give you suggestions on partially pruning roses in early fall, followed by a second pruning the following April. This double pruning method produces the strongest and most prolific bloom.

MULCH

Please do not use artificially colored red mulch, rubber mulch or cocoa mulch; use only natural brown bark mulch. Do not mulch right up to the base of the plants, as this invites rodents to nest and gnaw on the stems or trunks of the plants.

Note of why NOT to use Cocoa mulch: Cocoa mulch, produced by Hershey, has a Thorazine compound and other poisons which are hazardous to pets who are attracted by the chocolate odor. Ingestion of this chocolate mulch can cause seizures and death within hours.

HYDRANGEAS

Plant Hydrangeas in a sunny area, if you live near the coast that allows them to enjoy gentle seas breezes. Away from the coast, plant Hydrangeas in part sun on the west or east aspect of the garden in organically rich soil with composted manure and add extra composted manure this month around the base.

If you have the blue macrophylla Hydrangea add some peat or aged oak bark around the base, the acidity in the peat or oak bark encourages a deeper blue color. Hydrangeas are a wetland plant and require plenty of water throughout the summer. We had a late spring and with all the spring and early summer rain and good sunshine, the foliage and bloom of the hydrangeas are performing well.

Watch out for powdery mildew and spray with the following powdery mildew recipe you can mix yourself:

Recipe for powdery mildew -Two tablespoons baking soda, one dessert spoon of vegetable oil, a squirt of dish soap with a gallon of water in a sprayer. For any recipe spray you make at home, spray only in the morning when there is no wind and when the temperature and humidity added together do not go above 180.

Pruning Hydrangeas – Prune Hydrangeas immediately after they finish blooming in late August or early September but no later, as Hydrangeas set their buds for the next season by mid September. If you prune after September, you will lose next season’s bloom. When you prune, cut out some of the old wood and the weakest of the new shoots. In October put more composted manure and brown mulch around the base to nourish and protect the roots through the winter.

GARLIC

Did you know that garlic is the antibiotic of the garden. I love using garlic in my recipes. Garlic is an important anti-fungal element to protect your plants, and I suggest planting more garlic in early fall.

To avoid fungal diseases, plant garlic around strawberries, tomatoes and raspberries to avoid fungal diseases.

Plant garlic in these places:

around mildew-prone plants to prevent mildew on such plants as summer phlox and bee balm.
under fruit trees to avoid scab and root disease.
next to ponds or standing water to control mosquito larvae or pour garlic water into the water to deter adult mosquitoes.

(The following recipes are from a garden book I am writing.) Where you notice marauders have been munching, like insects or animals make a garlic spray to apply on the plants including vegetables.

Garlic spray recipe

4 large, crushed garlic cloves, unpeeled
2 teaspoons of vegetable oil
1 squirt of mild dish detergent

Put all ingredients in 2 cups of hot water in the blender, blend, then leave overnight, in the morning then put these ingredients in a gallon sprayer with cold water and spray in the early morning when there is no wind, observing the rule of 180. Observing the rule of 180 is when the temperature and humidity when added together do not go above 180.

Hot pepper spray recipe

To deter squirrels and chipmunks, try a hot pepper spray using either 4 hot chilies or one cup of cayenne pepper in 2 cups of hot water, in the blender, blend and leave overnight then put in a gallon sprayer with cold water and spray the problem areas in the early morning.

This pepper spray works well to deter squirrels, chipmunks, deer as well as dogs and cats that may be leaving their deposits in the garden.

HANDS:

Gardener’s hands are your their tools when working in the garden so it’s important to take care of them. My hands remain healthy by indulging in a hot cream treatment once a week before bed.

Hot Cream Recipe:

Combine Calendula cream with honey and essential oil of lavender heated in the microwave, apply generously and put on white cotton gloves for sleep. When I wake up my hands are soft and smooth as a baby’s bottom.

Also please wear gloves, when working in soil that contains manure or when spreading manure. Manure is an organic product that contains bacteria; bacteria is great for the soil but like many bacteria not healthy for you. The garden gloves I prefer are the soft leather farmer’s gloves that are washable.

FLAVORED OILS

Many herbs are at their peak right now and are ideal for using in flavored oils.

The oil I use as a base is organic olive oil. I harvest basil, parsley, sage, tarragon and oregano in the morning, rinse them well, pat them dry with a paper towel and then make the recipe. Then choose an herb that you want to use that day, and add to two cups of organic oil.

For thyme and lavender, I use only the flowers with one cup of oil to a handful of blossoms.

Combine the herb mixture in a blender, then store covered in a wide mouthed jar for three days, shake at least three times a day for the first two days and on the third day let the mixture settle to the bottom, then strain it through a paper coffee filter or cheese cloth into a clean jar. You will now have a tinted but clear mixture.

Refrigerate each mixture and use within two to three weeks. The herb oils I choose to make are rosemary, lavender, lemon, garlic, shallots and basil with olive oil as the base for each These are my favorites and are great brushed on vegetables and meats for grilling.

The Lavender oil is great for desserts; one I enjoy is this oil on vanilla ice cream.

Rosemary and lemon oil taste excellent on salads.

MOLES:

I know I have given you a few mole remedies in the past; but I have not given you the exlax method for a while. I can attest to the fact that I have used this method as have many of my fellow gardeners for years, as it works so well. Buy Exlax, from the Drug store, the main ingredient of Elax is Senna, which is a natural herb. Insert Exlax into the mole holes, the moles and voles eat it then die of dehydration.

If you have dogs and cats, do not use chocolate Exlax only the plain Exlax as chocolate is dangerous to pets.

In early April of next year, apply organic grub control, which means less grubs for the moles to feed on, and without their supply of grubs, the moles will go elsewhere for food. In addition, the white grubs of Japanese beetles are largely diminished with the grub control.

Japanese beetles love our plants and here is a method to deal with them naturally. In the early morning, the Japanese beetles are drowsy and can be captured. Lay a drop cloth under the plant or plants where you see them and gently shake the plant; the drowsy beetles will drop onto the cloth, which should be gathered up and then drop them in a garbage bag and discard.

Many of us now garden organically no longer using poisonous herbicides or insecticides, organic gardens have encouraged the earthworm population to once again increase; earthworms are a great boon to the garden soil as their castings add 50% nutrition to the soil together with eleven trace minerals.

SUMMER PHLOX

A swallowtail butterfly lands on late summer flowers.

I just love my summer phlox and to keep the mildew problems at bay I use the natural baking soda mix I mentioned above.

I have found that white Phlox Miss Lingard or white Phlox David are more resistant to mildew than other summer phlox.

Monarda, commonly known, as Bee Balm and Hydrangeas are also prone to the problem of powdery mildew, and this is where the baking soda recipe can be used to excellent effect.

For a second bloom on the Summer Phlox, prune off ten to twenty inches of the flower stems after the first bloom has gone by and within a few weeks you will experience a new bloom.

KEEP YOUR GARDEN CLEAN

A healthy garden is a clean garden. Do not put any diseased items into your compost.

Deadhead all annuals and perennials to encourage the second bloom and clean up all spend blossoms.

When Coreopsis and Spirea have bloomed, use garden shears to shear off dead flowers and they too will rebloom.

August has given plentiful spring and early summer rain and has resulted in bountiful fragrance, bloom and foliage.

We have a relatively short growing season here in New England, and being able to enjoy a healthy colorful border is so uplifting. That being said, by mid-August, when early perennials have gone by, we are able to give ourselves more enjoyment by filling in gaps with annuals or later blooming perennials

I constantly remind myself that gardens are a constantly changing scene of beauty in motion and plantings which looked good last year, but by this year they may have outgrown their space and need division or transplanting to another area of the border or even to another border which may be a little sparse.

When the weather is cooler in September, transplanting can be tackled on some of these overgrown specimens, so that every plant has its own space with good air circulation and can be able to perform their very best.

Divide those plants that have been in the soil for four years or more. You may have noticed that these plants have not been blooming as profusely as they did when first planted. When you divide and set aside the divisions, there are always fellow gardeners who will gratefully receive the transplants.

Now in August, continue the deadheading; by doing so your garden will always appear fresh and perky. After the hot, dry days we have had of late, watering is of major importance. In this regard, make sure the garden receives at least one inch of water a week and containers receive a daily dose of water, in the early morning and early evening.

Soaker hoses in the borders are a much more efficient method of watering; by using this method, the water goes straight to the roots where it is needed. By using soaker hoses you won’t lose 40% of moisture to evaporation and are also preventing water from landing on plant foliage, which in many instances results in disease and mildew.

When you cut back tired looking annuals, a new flush of bloom will appear in a few short weeks. As you walk around the borders right now, you will see their original vibrancy has gone by and a boost of new specimens to perk things up is required. These specimens can be found right now because many garden centers are offering late season bargains.

When the perennial Coreopsis and Spirea have finished blooming; cut off the dead bloom with the garden shears and enjoy the appearance of new bright bloom shortly.

CONTAINERS

When carefully tended, container gardens always bring color to your patio or paths. We spotted these outside the Lyme Art Association.

Make sure you have composted manure and fine bark mulch applied on top of the soil in your containers and water them daily. In hot weather the containers will need to be watered twice daily, morning and evening watering is the best. If you do not have time in the morning before you leave for work or errands, empty your ice cube trays on the containers; this provides slow -release watering until you can get to them later.

Every couple of weeks apply a little extra composted manure to containers when watering; this will keep these miniature gardens bright and cheerful into early fall. Apply the manure on top of the natural brown mulch as the combination of manure and mulch will help retain moisture and continue to retard weeds.

In the morning if you do not have time to water the containers before you go to work or run errands, simply empty your ice trays into the containers, this provides slow -release watering until you are able to add more moisture when you return home.

With the high heat and humidity that has been occurring recently, powdery mildew may be happening on certain species like Summer Phlox, Monarda and Hydrangeas. If you notice this problem, spray my mildew remedy of one gallon of water in a spray container, adding one tablespoon of baking soda and a dash of vegetable oil. Always spray in the morning before the temperature and humidity numbers combined equal 160.

Continue adding more composted manure to vegetables each month, as vegetables, particularly annual vegetables are heavy feeders. To prevent animals from munching on your precious bounty, place an old sneaker or a piece of carpet that your dog had lain on among the vegetables; these odors help keep furry marauders away.

PEONIES

Place your orders for Peonies now so they can be delivered for September planting. September is the month to transplant, divide Peonies.

Following the first hard frost in November cut any existing Peonies down to within six inches of the ground and add a little natural brown mulch around them to protect the pink-eyed roots, which are close to the soil surface. When planting Peonies or transplanting make sure that the ‘pink eyes’ on the roots are barely covered with soil, if the Peonies are planted any deeper, it is likely that you may not have bloom next year.

Begin compiling your list of spring bulbs now for the best choice of bulbs to be available for you.

Please feel free to email me with any gardening questions to MaureenHaseleyJones@gmail.com. I look forward to seeing you in your garden in September, in the meantime enjoy being outdoors and remember to stretch, hydrate and take time to smell the bloom.

If you would like a garden consult or conversation with my son Ian, of LlandscapesbyIan.com, feel free to get in touch with him. As the saying goes ‘ the apple does not fall far from the tree’ and in my estimation Ian has outpaced me with regard to creativity and production.

Gardening Tips from ‘The English Lady’ for June—”The Beginning of a Hopeful Summer”

Posted on June 25, 2025 by Maureen Haseley-Jones

Peonies need careful attention at this time of year to create a stunning display like this. File photo.

Maureen Haseley-Jones is “The English Lady.”

We have had a few cool nights recently which are just wonderful, sleeping with the windows open. I cannot remember the last time we had a real spring like we experienced this year, with plenty of gentle rain. This beneficial rain is wonderful for all the spring plant growth and such a pleasure freshening the air for us all.

I am so in awe of the miracle of Mother Nature and the symbiotic relationship between plants and all of God’s creatures. When I looked out of my window from my old home in Old Lyme, a few years ago, I could see the buds opening on my long border of peonies which had been planted by the original homeowner in the early nineteen hundreds. As I looked, I recalled the symbiotic relationship between ants and peonies.

A question often asked of me is “Maureen, should I worry about ants on my peonies?” My answer, “That’s not a problem, lots of ants on the peonies just illustrate that you have healthy plants with big buds that are producing bountiful nectar which attracts the ants.” Ants are very useful creatures; their presence indicates that there are aphids and whiteflies in that area of your garden and the ants feed on these troublesome insects.

Make sure that your peonies get plenty of water, also check the PH of the soil which should register between 6.5 and 7.0. In early June, I pinched off the side buds of the Peonies, as by doing this, you will produce big terminal blooms on the plant. When the bloom has passed, apply a light application of composted manure to encourage the soil animals and the manure bacteria to keep your soil healthy.

A word of caution: Do not cut the peonies to about six inches from the ground, until after the first frost in November. Before then, in September, plant or transplant Peonies to barely cover the pink eyes on the roots with soil, just enough so the plant does not fall over.

Now, in late spring, many insect pests are appearing in large numbers in your garden. I just looked out of my patio door and noticed that it is past time for me to tend my perennial border there where my Nepeta, Salvia, daylilies and other perennials are getting inundated with weeds and insects of every denomination. I am the answer to the weeds, but a useful creature against the pests is the lowly toad.

I suggest putting some toad houses in and around your borders. You can purchase toad houses from the garden center, or you can use an old clay pot that is cracked and make sure that the crack is two to four inches wide to act as a door so the toad can enter. In addition, put a small saucer as a floor under the pot with some rocks, and keep the rocks damp, so that your friendly toad enjoying their toad abode will settle in comfortably and snack on all the pesky bugs.

June is the month when roses begin to bloom. I have always used David Austin roses in my garden and in my landscape designs. I find David Austin roses are the most trouble-free roses and offer great rewards; among those rewards are that they are repeat bloomers with wonderful fragrances and colors.

Some of my favorite David Austin roses are:

‘A Shropshire Lad,’ a soft peachy pink.
‘Abraham Darby’ with petals that are a blend of apricot and yellow.
‘Fair Bianca,’ a pure white.
‘Heritage,’ which opens as a soft clear pink.
My favorite is ‘Evelyn’. Evelyn has a large apricot saucer shaped bloom with a fragrance that is second to none offering a luscious fruity tone, of fresh peaches and apricots.

Feed your roses with composted manure, keeping the manure and mulch about six inches away from the base of the rose and add a few more inches of manure once a month until mid-August. At that time stop feeding so the roses can gently move into a much-needed slow dormancy. No other rose food is required except the manure and the mulch which attracts carbon from the atmosphere which in turn produces the humus component.

Unfortunately, Japanese beetles are attracted to roses, so I suggest acquiring Japanese beetle traps which should be placed far away from your borders on the perimeter of the property. If you find some Japanese beetles have escaped the traps and landed on the rose, then in the early morning, quietly take a white sheet and place it under the rose and gently shake the bush. You will find the beetles do not awaken and will fall onto the sheet, which can be gathered up and the beetles dumped into your closed trash bin.

A tip for keeping cut roses fresh is to cut the roses in the early morning, just above a five-leaf cluster, and place stems in a container of lukewarm water. Then, when indoors, recut the stems at a one and half inch angular cut, under warm running water, and place cut roses in a vase filled with warm water. Do not remove the thorns from cut roses, removing the thorns reduces their indoor life by as much as three days.

Add peat moss to blue hydrangeas to increase the intensity of their color.

HYDRANGEAS:
These need plenty of water, as before they were introduced to our gardens they flourished in wetland areas. Apply aged manure around the hydrangeas, which should be planted in full sun and spaced at least four feet apart for good ventilation to prevent mildew from occurring. If you have blue hydrangea macrophylla and want a more vibrant shade of blue, add some peat moss on top of the manure. The acidity in the peat will produce a lovely deep shade of blue.

WISTERIA:
Regular pruning through spring and summer is the main factor to help this arrogant vine to flower. Prune several times during the growing season, which means pruning every two weeks by at least six inches on each stem.

CLEMATIS WILT:
If you have this problem with the clematis, you will notice it early because the shoots wilt and die. This disease is impossible to cure, as it is soil born. Soil born means that it is not possible to plant another clematis of that variety in that area of the garden. However, you can plant the viticella variety; Clematis viticella are vigorous, free flowering blooms and are not susceptible to wilt. Some good choices of this variety are Blue Belle, Etoile Violette, both are purple and Huldine, which is white.

MULCHING:
Mulch your gardens this month when the soil has warmed up to 55 degrees. As you perform that task, be careful around trees. Apply the mulch at least six inches from the base of the trunk; any closer can cause rot and disease to occur in the bark and roots of the tree.

Also, trees that are mulched too close to the trunk invite mice and other rodents to inhabit the tree and gnaw on the trunk. Your garden can be mulched to a depth of between two and three inches with a natural fine dark brown hardwood mulch. Please do not use dyed RED MULCH, which is poisonous. Keep your garden natural, without any poisonous herbicides and pesticides.

CONTAINER GARDENS:
If you have room for one pot you have room for a number placed close together with different shapes and sizes creates your own miniature garden. Apart from regular pots, the most unexpected objects make interesting containers.

A friend who cut down trees this past winter left the stumps and hollowed them out to make containers. One large and two smaller stumps together made an interesting combo.

Also check in your basement, shed or barn to see if you have an old wheelbarrow, even if the wheelbarrow has a missing wheel like mine, which I painted blue with eco-conscious paint. Then I placed it near the kitchen door filled with bright colored vines, miniature grasses and small perennials.

Or you may unearth a large ceramic jar like the one I came across in one of the original cattle stalls of the stone and soil floored barn. This antique three-foot-tall ceramic vinegar container, replete with a hole where the vinegar tap was inserted, is ideal for drainage. I planted the jar with multi-colored perennials, which looked great on my newly painted blue bench alongside my red milk shed.

LAWN CARE:
Do not forget to add organic grub control through July, so that you help to keep down the mole infestation; remember no grubs means less food for the moles.

POWDERY MILDEW:
Keep an eye open for powdery mildew, especially after rain when humidity returns. My recipe for powdery mildew is as follows:
In a sprayer, mix two tablespoons of baking soda, one tablespoon of vegetable or horticultural oil in a gallon of water and spray the mildew.

Hydrangeas and Summer phlox are particularly prone to develop this problem. To help counteract the mildew problem, I recommend using phlox Miss Lingard or phlox David, which are the white phlox and are the most mildew resistant.

Monarda, commonly known as bee balm, are also affected by mildew, and the one I have found to be the most resistant is “Cambridge Scarlet.”

I hope these tips are useful to you during this busy time of year in the garden. Remember to stretch, hydrate and enjoy the burgeoning promise of your garden and I’ll see you next month. If you would like some more gardening advice, contact my son Ian at LlandscapesbyIan.com. I am sure you would enjoy speaking with him as he is full of knowledge and, as the saying goes, “The apple does not fall far from the tree.”

If you would like to ask me a gardening question, please email me MaureenHaseleyJones@gmail.com.

Gardening Tips for Late Spring from ‘The English Lady’

Posted on April 29, 2025 by Maureen Haseley-Jones

Though April showers may come your way, They bring the flowers that bloom in May,
So if it’s raining have no regrets, Because it isn’t raining rain you know, it’s raining violets.
– Al Jolson

Azaleas in full bloom are a welcome sign of the approaching summer.

April was a month of activity in the garden, and our old nemesis, weeds are beginning to rear their heads, so we need to extract the little devils before they take hold and are difficult to remove.

Having said that, I must point out the benefits of many weeds. Nettles are food for butterflies, clover extracts nitrogen from the air, which is then absorbed into the soil and the oil from jewel weed soothes poison ivy rash. The young foliage of Dandelions is great in salads and when lightly cooked it tastes like spinach with the added advantage of containing many healthy nutrients.

In this group, I do not want to forget our songbirds and other wildlife who depend on weed seeds as a food source.

WEED REMOVAL

Weeds must be pulled gently so that the weeds and roots do not break apart, because if this happens, thousands of weed seeds will reseed and you will find yourself with an endless cycle of unnecessary weeding. When careful weeding has been accomplished, apply an organic weed pre-emergent, with a corn gluten base by Bradfield Organics; this natural product will keep weeds at bay for about six weeks.

ROSES, RHODODENDRONS & MORE

Day lilies bring a splash of color to spring gardens.

Plant bare root roses at the end of April or beginning of May and plant container roses in mid- May. In the middle of May when the soil temperature has reached 55 degrees, add manure and on top of the manure add a fine bark mulch about one foot from the base of the roses. Check my Early Spring tips to remind yourself on pruning roses.

Be careful clearing winter debris from around rhododendrons, mountain laurel and azaleas; these evergreens have shallow roots and do not appreciate having their roots exposed. If winter weather did erode soil around some roots, add soil to cover the exposed roots and at the same time resettle the plant in place. In the middle of May apply manure and fine bark mulch as well as some peat, which adds much needed acidity for evergreens.

Plant Gladioli corms at two-week intervals in late April. Planting in two- week intervals ensure you will get a succession of bloom. Plant the corms eight inches below the surface; this extra depth helps to keep the heavy blooms erect.

The Red Lily beetle will soon appear, and I suggest applying organic Neem oil on the Lilies when they are about four inches above ground, the oil helps to halt this beetle problem.

SOIL SOLARIZATION & MULCHING

This is an effective way to control many soil-borne problems, specifically the tomato blight that causes fruit rot. Covering the soil with clear plastic in the area where tomatoes are to be planted at the end of April, for one to two months can generate high enough temperatures in the top six to 12 inches of soil to kill pests, nematodes, weed seeds and many disease organisms like the tomato blight. This process has proved invaluable for home gardeners and the beneficial effects last for several seasons.

To solarize, dig a trench several inches deep around the soil bed, and spread a thin, clear plastic film (1-4mils) over the bed. Press the plastic into close contact with the soil and seal the edges by filling the trench with soil. Leave the plastic on the soil until you are ready to plant tomatoes or other vegetables in about six weeks.

With a soil thermometer checking to see when the soil temperature has reached 55 degrees, then manure all the borders with composted manure in bags from the garden center or aged manure from the bottom of the farmer’s pile, then mulch with a fine brown hardwood mulch. It is important to wait until the soil temperature has reached 55 degrees so that the valuable bacteria in the manure can work its magic in the soil.

As spring temperatures rise, blossom begins to appear on trees.

In the vegetable garden, following soil preparation and planting, it is time to mulch. Mulch with composted manure that will not ‘cap,’ which means it does not form a crust like other mulches and air and water can penetrate through to the roots of the plants where it is needed for vegetable and fruit production.

If you did not apply an organic grub control on the grass in March, apply now to reduce the grubs, which is the food source for Moles; the grub control will help to cut down on the mole population.

Soil is the most important component of production in the garden; with compost, organic manure and peat to amend soil and rebuild its structure. The ratio to use is one part compost to three parts manure and apply peat to the planting mix in the ratio of one part peat to three parts manure when planting evergreens. And as mentioned above, peat adds the acidity which evergreens require.

Good soil structure assists with drainage, prevents compaction, and the rich nutrients with the amendments break down and encourage the soil animals beneath the surface to work at full capacity. In a sandy soil, humus is needed to produce micronutrients for this soil, which is the combination of manure, mulch and carbon from the atmosphere that binds the sand particles together which will produce a healthy workable soil. In heavy soil such as clay, the humus separates the clay particles which allow for air and drainage.

GROWING CONDITIONS IN LATE APRIL/EARLY MAY

These are very favorable for new plant-root development. This month is the best time to transplant evergreen shrubs and plant new evergreens. Apply composted manure and peat together with the topsoil in the planting hole. Then give the roots a workout with your hands before planting. Separating the roots in this way gives them the freedom to reach into the surrounding soil for nutrients and water remaining moist in the heat of summer.

Many years ago, when I moved into my farmhouse on the shoreline, I discovered that my soil was sandy, which is good for drainage but sadly lacking in nutrients. I began adding a few inches of manure to all planted borders in April, July and October. The result today is when I put a spade in the ground to check the color of the soil in spring it’s ‘black gold’.

Gloves should be worn when handling manure, as manure contains bacteria; the bacteria is great for the plants and the soil but not good for your health. These natural soil amendments tend to be slow acting; gradually making the nutrients available to the plants throughout the season with infinite rewards.. Composted manure is applied in spring around mid May when the soil temperature has reached 55 degrees and when the plants show about six inches of growth. This method allows the nutrients and soil animals to become active at the time when plant growth is occurring at a rapid pace.

DAFFODILS, FROSTS & ANNUALS

Daffodils, which are my favorite flower, are appearing in gardens and on roadways making a lovely spring time sight. When the Daffodil bloom has past, do not cut the leaves from the Daffodils or any of your spring flowering bulbs, the leaves send down energy in the form of food into the bulbs to store for next season’s growth.

This is the time to tackle a new lawn or patch seed, use only good quality grass seed, organic fertilizers and lime, which provide the alkaline, need for healthy grass growth.

Even after several consecutive warm days, frost can still occur. Having said that I suggest that you do not plant annuals until Memorial weekend. If you purchase annuals at the Mother’s Day sales, place the annual plants in a protected spot in the garden, like a wall, until planting. Do not cultivate around the perennials in the borders until mid May.

Do not panic if you are not able to get the April tasks done until May, your garden will wait for you and the constancy that is Mother Nature will continue to keep your patch of earth flourishing.

Enjoy the pleasure of being outdoors in warmer temperatures, inhaling the pungency of awakening soil and your connection with Mother Nature. Do not overdo it; warm up the body before the garden labor and stay well hydrated with lots of water.

We are inexorably entwined with the earth and know that even the smallest gesture of a garden has positive rewards; the effects are not only on you but on our planet.

It is important to have a well-thought-out plan before creating a new garden or landscape. Yo may wish to call my son Ian, who has followed in my footsteps as a landscape designer, and arrange a landscape consultation at LandscapesByIan.com

I will see you in your garden with more gardening tips later in May and if you have any gardening questions, please email MaureenHaseleyJones@gmail.com

About the author: Maureen Haseley-Jones is a member of a family of renowned horticultural artisans, whose landscaping heritage dates back to the 17th century. She is one of the founders, together with her son Ian, of, The English Lady Landscape and Home Company. Maureen and Ian are landscape designers and garden experts, who believe that everyone deserves to live in an eco-conscious environment and enjoy the pleasure that it brings. Maureen learned her design skills from both her mother and grandmother, and honed her horticultural and construction skills while working in the family nursery and landscape business in the U.K. Her formal horticultural training was undertaken at the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew in Surrey.

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