Nibbles: It’s Cold Outside … So Try Caribbean Bread Inside

One morning a few days ago, the outside thermometer outside was -6 and the  bedroom was 47 degrees Fahrenheit (I don’t heat the bedroom because I like the electric blanket on my bed atop my featherbed and over the goose down comforter to keep me warm).

Yesterday it was 57 degrees Fahrenheit and pouring.

This morning, outside, it was 6 above.  At 10:45, it measured 10, a veritable heat wave.

I just bought my third SoftShine Throw (the cat Junie took the first one, Elderlee the second) to keep myself warm in the den.

But I am happiest in the kitchen, where my metabolism is in overdrive.  Last week I made chicken soup, onion soup, chicken salad from the chicken soup and some extra for pad Thai.  I took an unbaked meatloaf from the freezer, thawed it and roasted it for sandwiches (made in my Joseph’s Flat Bread).

When my newest Fine Cooking arrived, I devoured it (figuratively, of course).  Tony Rosenfeld, who writes great food articles for that magazine (headquartered in Newtown, Connecticut), wrote about chili.  I love chili, although I’m more interested in chili whose main ingredient is not chili powder.

His recipes showed me how to use seven different meats, 18 flavor accents (and he says to use at least two and up to six), deglazing and stewing liquids, eight different beans and lots of vegetables and garnishes.  I made one with meat, yellow peppers, cayenne, canned tomatoes, black beans, cannellinis, summer-frozen sweet corn and a squish of lime.  It was better than great.

With it, of course, came Caribbean cornbread, from a recipe given to me by Karen Goodspeed some years ago.

Caribbean cornbread

Caribbean cornbread

Caribbean Cornbread

Yield: 8 to 12 people

Preheat oven to 325 degrees

1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cups cornmeal
2 tablespoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
2 sticks (one-half pound) unsalted butter at room temperature
¾ (three-quarters) cup sugar
4 eggs
1 ½ (one and one-half) cups cream-style corn
½ (one-half) cup crushed pineapple, drained and squeezed a little
1 cup shredded jack or mild cheddar cheese
Butter and flour a 8- or 9-inch Pyrex dish.

Whisk together flour, cornmeal, baking powder and salt and set aside.

In a mixer, cream butter and sugar together. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each. Add corn, pineapple and cheese and mix to blend. On low speed, add dry ingredients and mix until blended well.

Bake until tester is clean, about 1 ¼ (one and one-quarter) hours and golden on top. Do not underbake.

headshot_LeeAbout the author: Lee White (left) is a resident of Old Lyme in a section of town where she and her house are the oldest members.  She has been writing about restaurants and cooking since 1976 and has been extensively published in the Worcester (Mass.) Magazine, The Day, Norwich Bulletin, and Hartford Courant.  She currently writes Nibbles and a cooking column called A La Carte for the Shore Publishing newspapers, and Elan, a quarterly magazine, all of which are now owned by The Day. 

Nibbles: All in a Day’s Work — Hummus, Spiced Pecans

Seasonal spiced pecans.

Seasonal spiced pecans.

The snowstorm two weeks ago took me by surprise.  It isn’t as if the meteorologists got it wrong; as a matter of fact, they pretty much got it right.  But I don’t watch local television weather reports: I get The Day every day, along with The New York Times.  I TiVo Jeopardy (and lots of other shows, some good enough to talk about, others of which I am ashamed that I watch them.)  But I don’t watch television in the morning or from 5 to 7 p.m.  I am usually in bed before the 11 o’clock news.

As a result, I realized just Friday afternoon that I would not be driving to New York State for a memorial service for the wife of a high school classmate.  On Sunday morning I decided I would miss a Sunday afternoon party at my friend Tracie Armao’s house because I did look at the Weather Channel and thought the melting ice might freeze before I could get home.

What I did, instead, was cook.  I had leftover chili, so I also made a meat loaf (for sandwiches, primarily), onion soup, chicken soup (with the chicken I would make into salad for the week), hummus and spiced pecans.  Here are the two latter recipes, one for  hummus I adapted from Claire’s Corner Copia Cookbook (Penguin, New York, 1994) and the other, for pecans, Kim Severson, Atlanta Bureau Chief for The New York Times, put on Facebook.

Hummus

Yield: serves 8 to 10

2 to 3 15.5-ounce cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed

1 cup tahini (sesame paste, found in health stores and most supermarkets)

One-quarter cup olive oil

Juice of 2 to 3 lemons

One-quarter cup water

Lots of cloves of garlic (I use at least 6 to 8)

Salt and pepper to taste

Dash or two of cayenne pepper

One-half teaspoon paprika

Place all ingredients except salt, pepper, cayenne and paprika into a blender or food processor.  Puree into smooth.  Taste and add salt, pepper and cayenne (careful about that cayenne!)  Pour into a bowl and serve with pita, tortilla chips and/or raw vegetables.

Spiced Pecans

One and one- half teaspoons salt

Three-quarter teaspoon black pepper

Three-quarters teaspoon cayenne

One-half teaspoon ground ginger

One and one-half teaspoons cinnamon

2 to 3 tablespoons brown sugar

5 tablespoons butter, melted

6 cups pecans (although less expensive unsalted nuts would work, too)

Set oven at 350 degrees.  Whisk all ingredients except pecans together in a small howl.

Brush 1 tablespoon of butter over the top of a large rimmed baking sheet.  Add nuts, and toss to coat.  Spread nuts in a single layer and bake about 10 minutes.

Place pecans into a large bowl, add remaining butter and toss.  Add spice mixture, toss and add baking sheet to the oven.  Roast 4 to 5 minutes, stirring once.

Cool and try not to eat them all.

Nibbles: North Carolina Memories Stir Up Cinammon-Apple Cake

Cinnamon apple cake

Cinnamon apple cake

Another glorious September on the Outer Banks. Last year’s week was a little busier, with Richard’s mother and her two little dogs, and Ralph’s sister and brother-in-law visiting for a few days.

This time it was just us. I slept late every morning ‘til almost 8 a.m. With a teeth brush and  a comb sliced through my hair, I’d go upstairs, say good morning to Ralph and Richard and give a pat to Ethel, take a  can of V-8 and walk onto the deck. What to do, what to do? No newspapers to read, Later, I’d curl up on the couch to read my e-mails, see if anybody’d called, pull out half a dog cookie (Ethel liked to hide them between couch cushions) and read for a while. Eventually, we’d all consider the beach (and I the pool) and maybe have  lunch. Ralph showed me how to count carbs instead of calories and I wound up losing almost 4 pounds on vacation!

While on the beach or pool, I would figure out dinner from the fresh and frozen food I’d taken with us. Pasta twice with two different sauces (Bolognese and a fresh tomato marinara with pepperoni), meat loaf, a roasting chicken that we ate two different ways and grilled chicken that Ralph turned into salad for a couple of meals. I had taken along vegetables I’d either frozen or had bought at Trader Joe’s in Connecticut. We ate salads every day. And I’d bought lavash: few carbs, lots of vitamins and nutrients. We ate like royalty. I went into town once with Richard so we could pick out a cake for Ralph’s birthday. Ralph never went into town at all.

There will be another September Outer Banks vacation next year and I am again invited. On our last morning, I took a few pictures as the dawn broke over the ocean’s horizon. September can’t come soon enough.

Next week my North Carolina housemates will come to dinner with three new friends of mine. I will make pad Thai (good for Ralph’s carb counting, fine for Richard who doesn’t eat seafood and nut-, seed- and corn-free for one of my friends). And we will finish with this apple cake, given to me by my friend Deb Tyler.

Cinnamon-Apple Cake

Adapted from Cooking Light magazine, January, 2000

1 and three-quarters cup sugar, divided

6 ounces regular or low-fat cheese cream, softened

one-half cup butter, softened

1 teaspoon vanilla

2 large eggs

1 and one-half cups all-purpose

1 and one-half teaspoons baking powder

one-quarter teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

3 cups chopped peeled apples (Barbie uses more and so do I)*

cooking spray

Yield: 12 servings

Preheat oven to 350 degrees

Spray an 8-inch springform pan (or 9-inch springform or square pan; with 9-inch pan, reduce baking time 10 minutes)

Beat 1 ½ (one and one-half) sugar, cream cheese, butter and vanilla at medium speed of a mixer until well blended (about 4 minutes). Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition; set aside.

Place flour, baking powder and salt into a small mixing bowl and whisk together. Add flour mixture to creamed mixture and beat at low speed until blended. Remove bowl from mixer. Combine ¼ (one-quarter) cups sugar and cinnamon. Add 2 tablespoons cinnamon-sugar with apples in a bowl, then add to batter. Pour batter into pan. Sprinkle with remaining cinnamon mixture.

Bake at 350 degrees for one and one-quarter hours or until cake pulls away from sides of pan. Cool cake completely on a wire rack.

*The recipe calls for Rome apples. I use whatever I have, but remember that much of the liquid is from apples, so don’t use all Delicious apples or other apples that are a bit dry.

Nibbles: Quinoa with Pistachios, Parsley and Mint … and a Taste of Boules

Generally speaking, the boules parties that take place in eight venues Sunday afternoons in the summer are foodie delights.  Each year Gloria Pepin, chairwoman emeritus, and our president, Christine Hopkins (who will, we hope, stay as president forever, since the job is a pain) tweak our very loose rules.  It once began at 3 p.m. and is now at 2 p.m.  As we get a bit older, we think about going home a little earlier, although some of us decide to stay over rather than drive home.

This past year, the ladies decided that we should make the food prep easier.  It is a bit difficult for those of us who are not real chefs to compete with the rock stars so this year, each host and their co-hosts could choose from buffet, bistro or sit-down dinner.

All but one of us chose from the two former.  But Lori and Michel Nischan obviously lost the memo.  The wildly energetic couple, who runs the Dressing Room in Westport (and he founded the non-profit Wholesome Wave, which tries to get good, healthy, organic food to everyone in America) created for us a luscious boules party on the second to last boules party of 2013.

We chose from three different meats with four different sauces, tomatoes, mozzarella and basil in a delicious vinaigrette, haricots vert with peaches and terrific toasted bread (the last of which also served as bruschetta to lots of vegetables from their own garden.  There were also mussels, mussels, mussels, which I adore.

As for dessert, there were three pastry chefs at the party, Jacques Torres, his wife, Hasty, and Wendy Laurent who is pastry chef at l’Escale in Greenwich.  The desserts included a raspberry tart, a linzer torte, gigantic chocolate chip cookies, more cookies and two kinds of chocolate truffles.  And to begin and end the party, there was an ice cream.  Before we played, there was an ice cream truck that served lots of my childhood favorites, like the Good Humor Strawberry Shortcake and Toasted Coconut.  After dinner, along with dessert, came Jacques Torres’ housemade ice cream.

By the time you read this, the boules finals will be over.  I and  my teammates will have spent time talking to our friends, since our team was third of three teams.  There is always next year.

The team that beat us was captained by Norma Galehouse.  She beat us two out of two.  Norma is Jacques Pepin’s assistant.  Jacques’ wife Gloria was on my team.  She threatened to fire Norma for winning.

Another member of Norma’s Team,  Marla Kosenski, a high school teacher of French in Old Saybrook, made a salad that may be  my favorite salad ever.  She is gluten-intolerant, and I must admit that I loved this salad so much that, for me, this could be an entrée any night of the week.  She found the recipe in the Vegetarian Times a few years ago and has loved it every time she makes it.

Quinoa salad with pistacchios, parsley and mint.

Quinoa salad with pistacchios, parsley and mint.

Yield: serves 4

One-half cup shelled pistachios

1 cup quinoa

One-half teaspoon salt, plus for to taste

One-quarter cup finely chopped parsley (preferably Italian parsley, not curly)

One-quarter cup olive oil

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons finely chopped mint

Toast pistachios in a small skillet over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes, or until fragrant and golden brown. Transfer to cutting board, cool slightly, then chop and set aside.

Toast quinoa in heavy saucepan over medium heat 3 minutes, or until light brown and beginning to pop.  Stir in salt and 2 cups water. Cover and bring mixture to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer 15 minutes, or until water is absorbed. Transfer to a serving bowl and let cool.

Add parsley, oil, lemon juice, mint and toasted pistachios to cooled quinoa. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let stand 20 minutes for flavors to develop. Adjust seasonings, adding a little more lemon juice, if necessary. Serve on bed of leaf lettuce, if desired.

Nibbles: Black Bean Chili in Crock Pot

Last week I spent a period of four to five hours at the DMV in Old Saybrook. I had finally decided to sell my beautiful, charming, adorable 2005 VW convertible. I didn’t really need two cars (the Forester was my husband’s car) and, truly, I couldn’t afford them both. I mentioned this to friends at dinner at the Gordons’ house. Two weeks later we had dinner at Campania with the same couples. At the end of that dinner, Theresa handed me a check for $500. I had no idea why. “I’m buying the VW,” she laughed.

Classic Black Bean Chili

Classic Black Bean Chili

Then the fun began. Because I had lost the title and because my daughter is the actual owner, at DMV’s suggestion I began to express mail forms for Darcy in Phoenix. It turned out that everyone was doing everything they could to make this happen quickly: the Postmistress in Old Lyme twice called me to let me know each of the express mail packages had arrived. The people were extremely kind at the DMV, especially Rachel, a supervisor who explained all the information for me and, I hope, has become a friend with whom I will soon have lunch. Plus, the DMV is airconditioned, I had my Kindle and was reading Curtis Sittenfeld’s new book.

I really do not like this very hot weather and I loathe humidity, so I was glad for air conditioning. I take rides in my car. I went to the movie by myself (“The Internship,” which was very silly, but it took place at Google. I love Google.). Yesterday we had boules at the Pepins’ house and it was hot and humid and the mosquitoes found me. When I got home, I put the air conditioner on in my bedroom and fell asleep within minutes. I woke up at 3 with a sore throat and a very dry mouth. I turned the unit to “fan only” and fell back to sleep ‘til 7:30.

What will I cook tonight, and every night until this heat subsides? Salads, maybe rice biryani which I can make on my rice cooker. BLTs (on Saturday, when it was a bit cool outside, I cooked three pounds of bacon, put it in a big plastic bag in the “meat” crisper, where it will last for at least two months). I will make two or three different salad dressings in the blender, which will last through July and most of August. And I will make black bean chili in my slow cooker (which is really a Rival Crock Pot, so I can call it a Crock Pot).

Black Bean “Chili”

Created by Christopher Prosperi, chef/owner, Metro Bis, Simsbury

1 bag of dried black beans

 1 28-ounce can of tomatoes with juice

 1 pound andouille or hot or sweet sausage, cut into 1-inch chunks

 1 pound (or so) boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into chunks

 2 tablespoons chili powder

1 tablespoon cumin

 2 tablespoons molasses

 1 medium onion, diced

 3 to 4 cups low-sodium chicken stock

In a large slow cooker, pour ingredients, in order. Cover slow cooker and turn to “low.” Cook for around 7 to 8 hours. Remove lid, stir everything around, place lid back on and cook for another one or two hours. (If “chili” needs more liquid, add some more stock.) Half an hour before dinner, make rice (I would use jasmine or basmati, but plain rice is fine, too). To plate: Put rice on warmed plate, scoop “chili” on rice, making sure you get some of everything in the slow cooker and serve. (If you’d like to top the “chili” with grated cheddar or Monterey Jack cheese and/or sliced scallions, this might be nice.