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Gardening Tips for December from ‘The English Lady’ – ‘The Color of Winter is in the Imagination’

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Tulips on a snowy day. Photo by Theresa Sullivan.

Hello everyone; so much to do and so little time in this holiday season … remember to breathe, stretch and take time out for yourself each day.

Maureen Haseley-Jones is “The English Lady.”

On a pleasant December day, go out into the garden — there is still time to plant your spring bulbs. The earth is still workable so enjoy the fresh air and the gentle exercise before you indulge in the Holiday festivities. 

Plant the bulbs three times as deep as they measure in their upright position.  For example, the Daffodils should be planted nine inches down below the frost line. Last month, I suggested that you put a bag of composted manure in the shed or garage to spread around the bulb area after planting. However, if you do not have the manure now, when the bulbs peak up from the soil in spring, you can obtain the composted manure and sprinkle it around the emerging bulbs.

At this moment, I am sitting in my armchair with a delicious cup of Earl Grey tea, inhaling the air wafting from the kitchen, the fragrance of cloves. It is an old family tradition that I follow each December, filling my great-grandmother’s brass saucepan with water – adding whole cloves – bringing the water to the boil, then turning it down to simmer gently. The fragrance is a special memory of Christmas in the kitchen in Gran’s thatched roof cottage on the grounds of our plant nursery in England. 

On this side of The Pond, in early winter before snow falls or even on a sunny day with snow on the ground, there are construction projects that can be accomplished with patios, decks, ponds, and dry stonewalls to repair and build. By accomplishing these tasks in winter, you will be ready to plant in spring. 

If you are not into heavy work, I suggest you call a landscape company that you trust to give you an estimate for your project. In fact, you my care to get in touch with my son Ian, at landscapesByIan.com for an estimate or a consult on stonework work or a design for the spring. Ian tells me that there is a scarcity of building supplies because of the pandemic, which might hinder your projects for your garden, unless you act promptly.

Snow is already here, so I hope you have the snow shovel handy or perhaps you require a new one? If so, buy a lightweight, wood-handled and plastic shovel instead of heavy metal. When the storm has passed and you are ready for cleanup, don’t load the shovel heavily, scoop lighter loads. You will get it done faster and with less aches and pains, or chance of injury. If you are not able to clear the snow yourself from driveways, walkways and steps, I’m sure there are some teenagers in your neighborhood who would be willing to help you out. We need the moisture from the snow for the soil and plants.  My hope is that we also get a good amount of rain to carry us through to spring.  

If you have not already done so, mulch around the trunks of roses, mound at least six to nine inches up the stems. As I mentioned earlier, buy a few extra bags of mulch and topsoil and store them in the garage or shed.  

Tie down the long whip-like rose canes of climbers to supporting structures so they are not broken off by strong winds. If the shrub roses are planted in an exposed area, cover them with a rose cone or if they are larger, cover them lightly with burlap until April.  

Amaryllises are a wonderful winter bloom since they enjoy an extended flowering period.

I just walked into my living room to check on my Amaryllis bulbs, which have striped blooms. Amaryllises can be enjoyed for a long time with little effort. As the flower buds begin to open, remove the pollen bearing anthers with tweezers, before they begin to shed — this will add days to the flowering period and remember to water.

Once the bloom is finished, deadhead it, remove the bulb from the soil and let it dry off. Store in a cool dark basement or some other cool dry place at about 55 degrees for 10 weeks without watering. When you want to start it again, pot up the bulb tightly in fresh potting soil and begin to water again. By the way, the Amaryllis is poisonous so do not let children or animals eat the flowers.  

Outside my kitchen window, I can see the holly bush with lovely red berries, some of which I cut to decorate the house. Holly is a good weather predictor; few berries mean a mild winter, whilst many berries denote a harsh one. My red and black friends, the ladybugs, have begun to come indoors, earning their keep by consuming white fly and aphids, which often gather on houseplants.      

This week, in the house, I am planting up my first group of paper white narcissus to get a head start on bloom in about a month. I store two dozen bulbs in the vegetable keeper of the refrigerator, away from the food. I plant half of them now and store the rest in a paper bag in the refrigerator, away from food, which I will plant later. With this method, I will have continuous blooms and fragrance through the winter months. By keeping the bulbs in the refrigerator, they stay dormant, until planted. 

Paper-white narcissi give off a beautiful fragrance. Photo by Jonathan Diemel on Unsplash.

I plant my bulbs in pebbles, with just enough pebbles to anchor the bulbs and enough depth for the roots to grow. Cram a lot of bulbs in the pot so they are touching – the more bulbs, the more vibrant the display. Make sure the bulb pots do not have drainage holes; if they do, cover the holes with shards of broken pottery.  

I place the planted bulbs in a dark, cool room or cupboard, always keeping the pebbles moist. In a few weeks, when the shoots of the narcissi are about six inches tall, I take the vases into a cool room on the south side of the house and place them about six feet away from the window in indirect light where they remain, keeping the pebbles moist until the buds appear. When the buds appear and the stems are about 12 inches tall, bring them into the area of the house to be enjoyed. Always place them about six-feet from a sunny window and away from draughts and heat. Keep the soil or pebbles moist throughout the life of the plants.

I know that the stems of paper whites get leggy and often topple over. My tall glass vases do not allow this to occur but if you don’t have tall containers, here is a suggestion to keep the plant upright. An English gardening colleague of mine gave me his ‘gin tip’. He pours a dessertspoon of gin (not the expensive stuff) on the soil or pebbles around the plants every couple of weeks after he has watered them. This limits the height of the stems, so they do not collapse, and the gin does not affect the bloom.

Regarding alcohol, another tip my grandmother whispered is to add a few drops of brandy or port to invigorate potpourri that has gone stale. Personally, I pour a few drops of either lemon oil or lavender oil on the potpourri. 

I know that many of you spread salt on walkways, and driveways to thaw ice. However, the salt ruins plants, when it seeps into borders.  Use an alternative like unscented kitty litter or sand that works well. In spring, just hose off steps and paths; the sand and kitty litter are good additions to your soil.

There is still time to prune dead or diseased branches from established deciduous trees and shrubs; it is an easier task to do at this time of year, as you are able to see what needs to be done without foliage obstructing your view. If you would like to have a fall pruning, call a reputable arborist to give you a quote and whose team will come and use their practiced eyes to give you a great result.

Last winter, squirrels, raccoons or whomever, got into the birdseed in the milk shed. I bought out the supermarket’s supply of cayenne pepper that week and sprinkled it on my birdseed to keep the marauders at bay. This trick will also keep those critters out of your garbage. I also sprinkle cayenne pepper in the bird seeders for the feeders and on the suet blocks – the heat of the pepper does not affect the birds – they do not feel the heat.   

To keep moths and bugs away from cupboards and in clothes; collect some remaining herbs that may be still available, perhaps sage and lavender. Tie them into bunches with string and slip over a hanger in your closet or in drawers — just this week, I put bunches of dried sage in my closets and drawers. Insects do not like fragrance and will keep away. 

A few bags of soil and mulch in the garage or shed will be useful after frost. Often the frost heaves plants above the soil and exposes the roots. The plants roots can be covered and protected with the soil and mulch, until they can be resettled again when spring arrives.   

When a plant is knocked askew by wind, ice or snow, do not be in a hurry to straighten it, quite often the plant will bounce back on its own. However, uprooted trees or shrubs should be straightened immediately and staked, roots covered with soil and mulched, then resettle the plant in the spring. When snow is heavy on the branches of the evergreens, gently brush the snow off with a broom — gently being the operative word.   

When you receive or buy cut flowers during the holiday you want them to last. To accomplish this, vases need to be squeaky clean. If there is a build up of dirty residue that regular soap and water won’t budge, try adding a little coarse sand to dislodge the mucky residue then use soap and rinse well. For a narrow- or globe-shaped vase use a bottlebrush.     

Poinsettias always add color to any space.

Poinsettias

I receive many questions about how to keep Poinsettias alive. I have a friend, who has kept the same poinsettia alive for eight years. After blooming, she places the plant in a cool room, watering when the top of the soil feels dry, then in late May puts it — still in its container — in the garden. In September, she brings it into her porch and begins gently watering. 

A combination I enjoy is poinsettias in a container with ivy and forced spring bulbs.  

I was always curious as to how Poinsettias got their name. Last year I heard an old story on that very subject. In a tiny village in Mexico, the tradition on Christmas Eve was to put gifts before the Crèche at the Church. A poor young boy, who had nothing to offer, went outside and knelt in the snow praying for a gift to give the newborn king. Where he knelt, a beautiful plant with vivid scarlet leaves appeared beside him and the boy joyfully presented his gift to the Christ Child. Mexicans therefore call the plant Flor de la Noche Buena (Flower of the Holy Night) and many believe the plant resembles the Star of Bethlehem.  Dr Joel Roberts Poinsett, the first minister to Mexico in the 1830s, brought the plant to the United States and it is for him that the plant is now named.

On a delicious note to end my tips this year – I present my recipe for English trifle – a scrumptious dessert at Christmas.

ENGLISH TRIFLE

This dessert is made of layers, made over a three-day period; it requires this length of time for each layer to set. I use a nine-inch tall glass bowl, as the appearance of this dessert is as mouth-watering as the taste.  

Ingredients:

2 pints of strawberries or raspberries  (you can use frozen strawberries or raspberries, and omit the sugar)
2 tablespoons of sugar on fresh fruit 
1-package ladyfingers or sponge cake or pound cake
1-cup Harvey’s Bristol Cream Sherry (omit the sherry if you do not want the alcohol) instead use water to make the Jell-O 
1 small package strawberry or raspberry-flavored Jell-O
1 small package of vanilla custard mix or Birds English custard (see note)
1 pint whipped cream

Combine washed and drained fresh strawberries/raspberries and sugar in a bowl and set aside at room temperature for about an hour.

In a 9-inch glass bowl, cover the bottom of the bowl with ladyfingers or sponge cake or pound cake, cut into 2-inch slices.  Drain the strawberries and reserve the juice.  Cover the cake with the fruit.

Add sherry to the reserved fruit juice to make one cup.  Prepare Jell-O using the fruit juice/sherry mixture as the cold-water part of the Jell-O mix, and hot water for the other part.  Pour the Jell-O over the fruit and cake layer, then refrigerate until it sets (usually about two hours or overnight).

When the Jell-O is set, prepare the custard and spread over the cake/fruit/Jell-O layer.  Refrigerate until custard is set.  

The day you serve the trifle spread a thick layer of unsweetened whipped cream over the top.    

If you are serving more people, repeat the cake, fruit, and Jell-O layers and top with the whipped cream.  

The nine-inch bowl serves 6 to 8.

Note: I use Birds English Custard mix, which can be found in specialty food stores and most supermarkets.  

If you have any gardening questions, feel free to email me at MaureenHaseleyJones@gmail.com. Have a wonderful Holiday and I’ll see you in your garden in January.  Be safe and well.

About the author: Maureen Haseley-Jones is a member of a family of renowned horticultural artisans, whose landscaping heritage dates back to the 17th century. She is one of the founders, together with her son Ian, of, The English Lady Landscape and Home Company. Maureen and Ian are landscape designers and garden experts, who believe that everyone deserves to live in an eco-conscious environment and enjoy the pleasure that it brings. Maureen learned her design skills from both her mother and grandmother, and honed her horticultural and construction skills while working in the family nursery and landscape business in the U.K. Her formal horticultural training was undertaken at the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew in Surrey.

Gardening Tips for Mid-Fall from ‘The English Lady’

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Maureen Haseley-Jones

Welcome to mid-fall everyone. I love the cool breezes and soft sunshine and the soil is still warm for you to plant until around now in the first week of November. 

This is an ideal time to divide summer blooming perennials, which have been in the ground for three years or more. Dividing perennials gives them a new lease on life and encourages more prolific bloom next season. The rules on transplanting also cover dividing.  

Early spring blooming perennials such as Iris can still be divided up when there is enough root growth to anchor these divisions before frost heave becomes a problem. 

When dividing Iris, cover the horizontal root divisions (the rhizomes) with just enough soil so they do not topple over, any deeper and they will not flower, and add composted manure around them when planted.

PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING PLANTS

When planting a tree or shrub, dig a hole at least one and a half times as wide, not deep, as the root ball.  An important rule to remember on planting and transplanting is not to plant the tree or shrub any deeper than it is in the container or wrapped in burlap. Or when transplanting any plant, tree, shrub and perennial is not to plant any of these plants any deeper than it was originally in the soil; planting too deep can be the death of plants. 

If you are unable to dig to any depth for a plant in the case of ledge in your garden, berm up the soil on the ledge and plant so that part of the root ball is above the soil grade, mounding soil around it.  

Handle your tree or shrub by its root ball, not by the trunk or branches.  After planting and transplanting add composted manure and, one part compost to three parts manure. If you do not have compost, manure is excellent.  Water deeply, slowly and thoroughly when planting and at least twice a week through the fall until the first hard frost, which in this area of New England is usually about the second week of November.

The following trees are not good candidates for fall planting: 

Birches, Larches, Gingko, Oaks, Magnolia, and all flowering fruit and flowering trees as well as the Eastern Red Cedar.  These trees have a fleshy root system and their feeder roots are not large when young and take time to establish, therefore are susceptible to frost heave.

Perennials that do not like to be planted in fall are Artemisia, Lambs Ears, Foxglove, Penstemon, Anemone, Campanula, Kniphofia, Lupines, Scabiosa, Ferns and Grasses. 

Plant garlic this fall – garlic is the antibiotic of the garden. Plant it under fruit trees to avoid scab and root disease, next to ponds or standing water to control mosquito larvae or pour garlic water into ponds, bird baths and fountains to deter adult mosquitoes.

At this juncture, I want to speak as to what Franklin D Roosevelt said in 1937; ‘The nation that destroys its soil destroys itself’. America has not heeded that warning. Precious soils in this country and around the world are being destroyed by dangerous practices in industrialized agriculture and poisonous chemicals, which completely disrupts our eco system and poisoning all living things.

The Humus component – good news for organic gardeners – in your own garden you can build and retain a rich growing environment by building the Humus component. We are all carbon-based creatures as is all life on earth. Not only humans but also our soil microbes need carbon to flourish.  To attract carbon from the atmosphere needed to build the humus component. 

To begin the process of humus – add composted manure three times through the year  – early May, July and October/November. Manure builds soil structure and provides a rich planting environment for the following season by encouraging the millions of soil animals down below to manufacture nutrients for the roots of the plants. 

Plus add mulch in the form of natural brown fine bark mulch or wood chips that you produce from your garden – aged wood chips with a combo of leaves, twigs and branches. 

With manure and fine bark mulch, you are building the humus component.  The manure and mulch attract carbon from the air, which builds the richest organic planting environment – the humus component. 

Mulching the garden and in particular any plants planted, divided or transplanted this fall with two inches of fine bark mulch, after the ground begins to cool in late October, will keep warmth and moisture in the soil and protect the roots of your plants through the winter.

You are probably asking what are the benefits of humus?

Humus acts like a sponge and holds 90% of its weight in water

Because of its negative charge – plant nutrients stick to humus with nitrogen, calcium, phosphorus and other elements, which prevents these from washing away, and acts as nature’s slow- release fertilizer.

Humus improves soil structure making it loose and friable, which helps plant root in the soil and makes for better access to nutrients, water and oxygen.

Humus also helps’ filter’ toxic chemicals from the soil, mulch like carbon-based water filtration systems filter toxins from your water. 

We cannot control industrialized agricultural practices – but in your own garden you can make a difference.   Grow the soil and the soil will grow the plants. 

Mulch and peat, which provides the acidity is particularly important for any newly planted broadleaf evergreens installed in September. As mentioned previously, evergreens are shallow rooted, and can heave above ground in hard frosts.  I suggest that you store a few bags of topsoil and mulch in the shed or garage.  When you see exposed roots from frost heave, cover them with the soil and mulch until the plant can be resettled next spring.       

Now let’s look at what should be done now in the vegetable garden focusing first on cover crops.  Next week I will cut down the finished crops and dig them lightly into the soil. 

This year, my choice for a cover crop in one area of the vegetable garden, is Alfalfa, which has 3.4% nitrogen content, and on the opposite side of the garden I will plant Buckwheat, which has 1.4% nitrogen content which provides nectar for beneficial insects. I will then cover the seeds with organic composted manure. There are many cover crops to choose from; I use white clover and rye grass in alternate years.  In spring when the earth is workable not too wet or cold, the cover crop is turned into the earth as ‘green manure’. 

The less hectic pace of fall provides an opportunity to rethink your gardens. The garden’s pre-winter grooming can wait for a few weeks.  You may feel that you would like a professional design, having thrown good money after bad and nothing looks right. 

If that is so then contact someone that you trust to work with you to create a plan in the fall and winter, which can be phased in beginning next spring.  Engage someone who will listen to your wants and stays within your budget.  My son, Ian of Landscapes by Ian.com always says ‘it is not what you do in the garden, but how it makes you feel’. 

SPRING BULBS 

Plant spring bulbs in early November.

Early November is the time to plant spring bulbs. When purchasing Daffodils, – choose early, mid- season and late blooming Daffodils, and by doing so you will have a succession of bloom.  Be adventurous this year and go for masses of a single color for the greatest impact. No matter how small your planting area, it is the intensity that counts, with two or three dozen red Tulips or a hundred Daffodils planted on your woodland edge. 

Buying daffodils in large numbers in less expensive — it’s true the bulbs are usually smaller but that is not a problem because daffodil bulbs grow larger each year they are in the ground. Even though many say that the bulbs should be spaced six inches apart, there is no reason they cannot touch. 

Apply some composted manure or bulbs food on the soil where bulbs are planted.  Wear gloves when you plant bulbs as they contain a skin irritant, which may cause a rash. 

The general rule is to plant bulbs about three times as deep as the bulb is tall and with the pointed end up.  This method is appropriate for most bulbs although tulips should be planted about twelve inches down if you want to have bloom for a second year. Daffodils should be planted no less than nine inches down, which is below the frost line.  Don’t plant the bulbs singly for the most colorful impact– plant in groups of odd numbers, 5,7 or 9 bulbs (odd numbers are harmonious in nature). 

Small bulbs like crocus, can be tossed gently into a shallow trench with composted manure on the bottom of the trench, about three inches deep and plant them where they land, pointed side up. For larger bulbs like tulips and daffodils dig a trench about nine inches deep and three or four feet long also of course with composted manure on the bottom and scatter these larger bulbs in the trench, also with the pointed end of the bulb faces up! 

Personally, I treat Tulips as annuals because their first year’s bloom is the best, after that first year the bloom is never as full and vibrant; the only exception to this is the parrot tulip, which flourish for years.  

Tulips are the ‘caviar’ of the bulb family. The best method to prevent them from becoming a tasty item on the rodent’s menu is to soak them in an organic deer repellent, which also repels rodents. Allow the tulip bulbs to dry before planting. 

If you are unable to plants your bulbs immediately when purchased, keep them in a cool, dry place in paper bags.  The best time to plant spring bulbs in the Northeast is in mid- November.

Observe Mother Nature; plants in nature do not grow in straight lines but in gentle curves that connect harmoniously with the earth.  

TREE WORK

Choose a licensed arborist. This work is much less expensive to have done in the fall after the foliage has fallen, then the arborist is able to see more clearly what needs to be done and the work goes faster – meaning less labor time and less expensive. 

If you have deep shade and want more sunlight in an area, ask the arborist to thin out the tree’s canopy and prune lower branches to make for a sunnier area, this will give you more choice of plants, that grow in dappled rather than deep shade.  

If you have a badly damaged tree, meaning over 50 percent damaged or diseased then have it removed, which allows for a sun garden or perhaps the vegetable garden you have always wanted.  

I do not cut down my spent perennials in fall, leaving them up so that I can enjoy the browns, grays, and yellows and faded greens, which blend gently with winter’s muted landscape. The seed heads of the perennials are wonderful snacks for the birds and in the dead of winter, what better sight than a red cardinal on the Winterberry bush in the snow.  

Also wait until next April to cut down ornamental grasses; their graceful foliage is lovely to enjoy with the icicles on them shining in the pale winter sun. 

Any spent perennials that show disease should be cut down but if the plant is more than one third diseased it should be dug up and discarded. The diseased material cleaned up and discarded it in the garbage not in the compost. Clean up any fallen plant debris from the soil and ONLY if it is disease and weed free, can it be added to the compost pile.

PEONIES

In November after the first hard frost, cut down peonies to within six inches from the ground and add some composted manure around the base of the plant.

SIGNS OF FROST

You can foretell a hard frost when you notice the afternoon temperature falling fast under a clear sky.  Assess the wind, by taking a long strip of plastic, like a shopping bag from the supermarket, and hang it from a tree branch. If the bag flutters about a foot in either direction, you do not have to worry about frost, but if it blows vigorously then frost is on the way.  If you still have plants in the garden that are of concern, cover them with salt hay, newspapers or light weight old quilts and put a brown paper bag from the grocery store over smaller plants like herbs, anchored down with rocks.      

Your houseplants should be indoors by now, following their summer sojourn outdoors. Wash the pots thoroughly and add fresh potting soil.  Then replant the plant at the same depth it was at originally and put in the sink or shower and allow water to wash the foliage and water the plant well.  If the plant has outgrown its pot, transplant it to the next size clean pot, only one and a half inches larger.

If you have any gardening questions, feel free to email me at MaureenHaseleyJones@gmail.com  and I will see you in your garden again later in November.

About the author: Maureen Haseley-Jones is a member of a family of renowned horticultural artisans, whose landscaping heritage dates back to the 17th century. She is one of the founders, together with her son Ian, of, The English Lady Landscape and Home Company. Maureen and Ian are landscape designers and garden experts, who believe that everyone deserves to live in an eco-conscious environment and enjoy the pleasure that it brings. Maureen learned her design skills from both her mother and grandmother, and honed her horticultural and construction skills while working in the family nursery and landscape business in the U.K. Her formal horticultural training was undertaken at the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew in Surrey.

Gardening Tips for September from ‘The English Lady’, a Month of ‘Peace and the Crackling Sound of Leaves’

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The  leaves are beginning to turn and soon we will be enjoying the full glory of fall. Photo by Faye Cornish on Unsplash.

Maureen Haseley-Jones is “The English Lady.”

Rain through August has been extremely sparse, that said, our gardens need rain as do our reservoirs.   

In the meantime, if you are planting evergreens, this month of September is the best time to plant evergreens in our zone. Evergreens planted now can begin to establish strong roots before winter and giving them adequate water is essential.

I suggest making a hole in the soil with an iron stake or other piercing instrument and feeding the hose into the hole and allowing water to reach the roots in a slow manner for at least a half hour on planting and a few times a week until the ground freezes in November. Cover the earth around the plants with a light layer of composted manure and mulch, but do not mulch right up to the bark of the plants as this encourages rodents to nest and gnaw on the bark of the plants. 

HYDRANGEAS

How should you prune to achieve hydrangeas that flower like this? Maureen has the answers. hydrangeas. Photo by Gemma Evans on Unsplash.

I often get questions on pruning of Hydrangeas, with fellow gardeners asking me ‘Maureen, why did my Hydrangeas not bloom this year’? The reason that Hydrangeas do not bloom is that gardeners prune them at the wrong time.  If you feel that your Hydrangea macrophylla has become too large and require pruning; 

  • Prune them by the first two weeks of September. The reason being is that Hydrangeas set their buds for next season by late September; pruning any later will cut off those buds, which will negate any chance of bloom for next season or even the following season.  
  • Prune any old woody stems that have not bloomed well and any weak new shoots.
  • After pruning, apply a few inches of composted manure, and some peat, followed by a top dressing of natural brown bark mulch. The peat aids acidity in the soil, which is necessary as Hydrangeas may become chlorotic if the soil is too alkaline. By the way, chlorotic means abnormal reduction or loss of normal green coloration of the leaves of plants.

On another note, Hydrangeas do not like to be transplanted; transplanting them can result in little to no bloom for many seasons. For that reason, I suggest when planting new Hydrangeas, make sure they are at least 5 ft. apart, so they have room to grow, receive adequate ventilation and will never need to be transplanted. 

This fall, as you contemplate your landscape, think on the past season as to what worked for you and what you will never try again. 

Unfortunately, mint has taken over the border beneath my Franklinia tree. Many years ago, my friend Roz, was kindly lending a hand in the garden and planted mint in the garden instead of a large container that I placed for that very purpose.  I was busy with other garden chores at that moment, so by the time I noticed the error six months later, the mint was running rampant among the blue myrtle edging the borders. So folks, please take note that mint is extremely invasive and should only be planted in containers where its wayward habits can be controlled.

‘It is said that ‘a gardener’s work is never done’, but now with the season’s hard labor behind you, take a break. Sit outside and inhale the late garden fragrances and allow Mother Nature to anchor and relax you. 

In the early morning I enjoy sitting on my patio near the herb garden, inhaling the fragrance of the sage, which I will  snip later to take indoors for drying and use in my recipes. I will also gather extra sage and lavender, which I will tie with string into small bunches to hang in my closets, which is a natural moth repellent.  Some of the Lavender bunches I tuck into my drawers to keep moths from devouring my woolens; this works so well as insects do not like fragrance. 

In your vegetable garden, sow spinach for spring harvest and sow a cover crop like winter rye, which can be dug in next spring together with composted manure as green manure. Green manure produces a rich growing environment for next year’s vegetables. 

Now is the time to get your fall compost pile cooking with the last of the grass clippings, spent perennials, leaves and small woody twigs.  

Now is also the time to dig up, divide and replant overgrown perennials. Follow this method every three to four years to ensure vibrant bloom from these plants. Never plant or transplant any division deeper in the soil than it is now or any deeper than the plant sits in the pot.

In the less hectic pace of fall, early autumn is the time to re-think your gardens. The garden’s pre-winter grooming will wait for a few weeks. Or you may feel that you would like to have a professional design as you have noticed that your borders are not up to your expectations. 

If that is so, then contact someone that you trust to create a plan in the fall and winter, which can be phased in beginning next spring. Engage someone who will listen to your thoughts and stay within your budget. I am giving you a suggestion for a plantsman, who is my son Ian whose company and website is LandscapesbyIan.com. I know you would enjoy speaking with him and the saying goes ’the apple does not fall far from the tree’ and I feel that Ian’s creative talents are well worth checking out.

PEONIES

Peonies need careful attention at this time of year to create a stunning display like this next year.

September is the month to plant and transplant Peonies.  Do not plant them deeply or they will not bloom, that means have just enough soil to hold them erect with the ‘pink eyes’ on the roots barely covered. Plant them with a light application of composted manure around the plant. Then in November, following the first hard frost, cut down the Peony foliage to about four inches from the ground. 

In a few weeks, the bright vibrancy of autumn color will appear on the maples. Fall’s brilliant autumn finery is the last hurrah, before winter sets in. Climbing up the red milk shed near the barn, the buds on the autumn clematis are beginning to unfurl and in the herb garden, autumn crocus, asters and sedum will take their curtain calls. 

For your soil to remain healthy, add a light layer of composted manure to all the borders now or in early October, together with a two-inch layer of fine bark mulch around to all newly-planted and transplanted perennials and shrubs.  With the application of the manure and mulch, you are continuing to build the humus component, which will ensure a rich growing environment for spring and protect the plants from winter’s harsh conditions.  

I do not cut down my spent perennials but leave them up for the birds; the ripened seed heads are a delicious treat for them to peck at. Following the vibrancy of summer bloom, I enjoy the softer, subtle colors of gray, brown and yellow of spent perennials and ornamental grasses blending naturally with the muted winter landscape, which to me offer a resting of the senses. 

Early to mid-October is a great time to be planting. The benefits of fall planting for trees, shrubs and perennials gives them a head start with root development over those planted in the spring. This is especially so when we experience a late spring when planting cannot begin until late April. In New England’s fall, the cooler temperatures and still warm soil encourages the plants to direct their energy into producing strong roots.   

The following trees are not good candidates for fall planting: 

  • Birches, Larches, Gingko, Oaks, Magnolia, and all flowering fruit and flowering trees as well as the Eastern Red Cedar. 

These trees have fleshy roots and their feeder roots are not large when young and take time to establish and are susceptible to frost heave.

Some perennials that do not like to be planted in fall are Artemisia, Lambs Ears, Foxglove, Penstemon, Anemone, Campanula, Kniphofia, Lupines, Scabiosa, Ferns and Grasses. 

Now is the time to plant garlic. Photo by Lobo Studio on Unsplash.

Plant garlic this month for harvest next June – garlic is the antibiotic of the garden. Plant it under fruit trees to avoid scab and root disease, near to ponds or standing water to control mosquito larvae or pour garlic water into ponds, bird baths and fountains to deter adult mosquitoes. 

BARGAINS

This is a good time to pick up end-of-season plant bargains. Most nurseries and garden centers have lowered their prices so they do not have to winter plants over in the nursery. However, with the low reservoirs you may decide to hold off until spring. But if you do purchase a few plants, keep your eyes open for the following problems:

  • POTBOUND PLANTS – check the bottom of the pot to see if the roots are growing through the holes.  If not, gently tap the plant out of the container to see if it has a network of overlapping roots that wrap around the root ball. It is possible to salvage a root bound plant, which is suffering from water and nutrient deficiencies over the summer, but it will be slow to root. Before you plant this one in your garden, cut the encircling roots – the roots will now be shorter but will take root easier. 
  • DISEASED PLANTS – plants that have been in containers all summer and have been fed high nitrogen fertilizers are easy targets for pests and diseases. Check for spots on the foliage, wilted or curling leaves and discolored roots. As well as visible signs of pest damage and infestation such as webbing or sticky residue on foliage. Not only would these plants do poorly in the garden but could infect your other plants and the soil.  Soil-borne diseases are the most difficult to deal with.
  • BADLY-SHAPED PLANTS – Badly shaped plants are the ‘Charlie Brown’ Christmas trees of the plant world, the unwanted orphans that have been passed over year after year; these are the runts of the litter!  Do not set yourself up for disappointment looking at an ugly tree or shrub just to save a few dollars.
  • MISLABLED PLANTS – At the end of the season many plant tags have been lost or mixed up, which means you are likely to get a perennial with flowers that are not the color you expected. Or you may buy a deciduous tree or shrub when you were looking for an evergreen variety.  Stick to the plants that are part of large displays of identically-labeled plants or with labels so firmly attached that look like they have been there for a while.

With all the above-mentioned plants – always add composted manure around the plant and do not plant any deeper than it is in its pot or burlap wrapping. Always wear gloves when working with manure; there is bacteria in the manure – great for the soil but not healthy for you. 

Above all, note that the bargain you get is often not worth the discount price. 

NEW LAWN OR PATCH SEEDING

September is an excellent time to plant new grass, the young grass plants will have the advantage over weeds. Do not buy cheap seed, you reap what you sow …

Gently de-thatch the areas that you wish to overseed or patch. Do not use the large thatching machines, which can damage existing grass. Add some composted manure to the area, broadcast the seed and cover the newly-seeded grass area with salt hay (free from weed seed). Do not allow the soil surface to dry out, keep it moist. Water gently, and do not saturate the area or the seed will wash away. 

When the grass appears, stay off it, do not mow and leave the salt hay to rot. Next spring, a healthy lawn will emerge and if there are a few bare patches in April, you can fill in the bare spots. 

I hope your spring bulb orders are in by now. Be adventurous this year and go for masses of a single color for the greatest impact. No matter how small your planting area, it is the intensity that counts, with two or three dozen red Tulips or a hundred Daffodils planted on your woodland edge. 

Buying daffodils in large numbers is less expensive, the bulbs are usually smaller – this is not a problem as daffodil bulbs grow larger each year. Even though many say the spacing between these larger bulbs should be six inches, there is no reason they cannot touch.  

Put some composted manure or bulb food on the soil where the bulbs are planted. Make sure you plant the Daffodils eight inches below the frost line, with the pointed end up. Wear gloves when you plant bulbs as they have a skin irritant, which may cause a rash.

If you cannot plant your bulbs when you receive them, store them in a cool, dry place in paper bags.  The best time to plant spring bulbs in the Northeast is the end of October to the middle of November.

Lily of the Valley can be transplanted this month but wear gloves because there is toxicity in this plant.  

Dig up your gladioli corms, Calla bulbs, Elephant ear bulbs and Dahlia tubers when the foliage turns yellow. Lay them in the sun to “cure” and store them in a cool, dry dark place. When you dig the Dahlia tubers, do not pull them, pulling can break the tubers. 

In early September after their summer sojourn outdoors, take your houseplants indoors and wash the foliage gently and repot with new potting soil into a clean container. Repot those plants that have outgrown their pots to a clean container that is only one size larger. 

Fall and early winter is a great time to do stonework – dry-laid paths, walls and patios. As well as repairing fences, arbors and pergolas and build decks. Paint wooden outdoor furniture with eco conscious paint before putting them undercover for winter.    

September is a gardener’s paradise; the air is cooler, the soil easy to work and you will not overheat with the effort.  Stay awhile in your garden; enjoy the comforting fragrance of fall.       

I’ll see you in your garden next time. 

Email me with gardening questions at MaureenHaseleyJones@gmail.com.

About the author: Maureen Haseley-Jones is a member of a family of renowned horticultural artisans, whose landscaping heritage dates back to the 17th century. She is one of the founders, together with her son Ian, of, The English Lady Landscape and Home Company. Maureen and Ian are landscape designers and garden experts, who believe that everyone deserves to live in an eco-conscious environment and enjoy the pleasure that it brings. Maureen learned her design skills from both her mother and grandmother, and honed her horticultural and construction skills while working in the family nursery and landscape business in the U.K. Her formal horticultural training was undertaken at the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew in Surrey.

Gardening Tips for August from ‘The English Lady:’ “The Border Between Summer and Autumn”

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This beautiful border at the Florence Griswold Museum in Old Lyme, Conn. includes a plethora of plants and flowers.

Maureen Haseley-Jones is “The English Lady.”

August has always been one of my least favorite months in the garden, but this year plentiful spring rain has resulted in bountiful fragrance, bloom and foliage.

We have a relatively short growing season here in New England and to have a healthy, colorful border is so enjoyable. Of course, by this time in the season, there are always a few gaps to fill in with annuals or some later blooming perennials.

Gardens are a constantly changing scene of beauty in motion and plantings that looked good last year may be oversized, and in need of division or transplant. However, this task can be tackled in September when the weather is cooler. Then you can venture into your borders, transplant some specimens so that every plant has its own space with good air circulation and is able to perform at their best.

Divide those plants that have been in the soil for four years or more, as you may have noticed that these plants are not blooming as profusely as they did in previous years. On that note, there are always fellow gardeners, who will be grateful to receive some of the divisions.

Keep up the deadheading; by doing so your garden will always appear fresh and perky.

After the hot, dry days we have had of late, watering is of major importance. In this regard, make sure your garden receives at least one inch of water a week and your containers are receiving a daily dose of water, in the early morning and early evening.

Another view of the stunning flower border in late summer at the Florence Griswold Museum in Old Lyme, Conn.

Soaker hoses in the borders are a much more efficient method of watering; with this method, the water goes straight to the roots where it is needed. By using soaker hoses you will not lose 40 percent of moisture to evaporation and you are also preventing water from landing on plant foliage, which can result in disease and mildew.

When you cut back tired-looking annuals, a new flush of bloom will appear in a few short weeks.

On closer inspection some of you may notice that the borders are looking somewhat weary and need a bright boost of new specimens to perk things up. And these specimens may be found right now as many garden centers are offering late season bargains.

When the perennial Coreopsis and Spirea have finished blooming, cut off the dead bloom with the garden shears and enjoy the appearance of vibrant bright bloom shortly.

Now is the time to stop feeding roses. Photo by Lena Albers on Unsplash.

ROSES:
It is of the utmost importance to stop feeding roses now in August. The reason being is that roses require at least nine weeks to gently relax into a slow, healthy dormancy before the first frost.

In my September tips, I will give you suggestions on partially pruning roses in early fall, followed by a second pruning the following April. This double pruning method produces the healthiest and most prolific bloom.

CONTAINERS:
Every couple of weeks give your containers a little extra, composted manure when watering, which will keep these miniature gardens bright and cheerful into early fall. Add the manure on top of the natural brown mulch as both manure and mulch help retain moisture and retard weeds. In the morning if you do not have time to water the containers before you go to work or run errands, simply empty your ice trays into the containers, this will provide slow-release watering until you are able to add more when you return home.

With the high heat and humidity that we have been experiencing recently, powdery mildew maybe appearing on certain species like Summer Phlox, Monarda and Hydrangeas.  If you notice this problem, I suggest spraying my remedy of one gallon of water in a spray container, adding one tablespoon of baking soda and a dash of vegetable oil.  Always spray in the morning before the temperature and humidity numbers combined together equal 160.

Continue adding more composted manure to vegetables each month, as vegetables — particularly annual vegetables — are heavy feeders. To prevent animals from munching on your precious bounty, place an old sneaker or a piece of carpet that your dog had lain on in among the vegetables; these odors help keep furry marauders away.

Peonies are always a pleasure to see in a garden. Photo by Jaroslava Petrášová on Unsplash.

PEONIES:
Place your orders for Peonies now so they can be delivered for September planting. September is the month to transplant, divide or plant new Peonies. Following the first hard frost in November cut any existing Peonies to six inches from the ground and add a little natural brown mulch around them to protect the pink-eyed roots, which are close to the soil surface. When planting Peonies or transplanting make sure that the ‘pink eyes’ on the roots are barely covered with soil, if the Peonies are planted any deeper, it is likely that you may not have bloom next year.

Begin compiling your list of spring bulbs now for the best choice of bulbs to be available for you.

Please feel free to email me with any gardening questions to MaureenHaseleyJones@gmail.com.

I look forward to seeing you in your garden in September — in the meantime enjoy being outdoors and remember to stretch, hydrate and take time to smell the bloom.

About the author: Maureen Haseley-Jones is a member of a family of renowned horticultural artisans, whose landscaping heritage dates back to the 17th century. She is one of the founders, together with her son Ian, of, The English Lady Landscape and Home Company. Maureen and Ian are landscape designers and garden experts, who believe that everyone deserves to live in an eco-conscious environment and enjoy the pleasure that it brings. Maureen learned her design skills from both her mother and grandmother, and honed her horticultural and construction skills while working in the family nursery and landscape business in the U.K. Her formal horticultural training was undertaken at the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew in Surrey.

Gardening Tips for July From ‘The English Lady’ … When the Sun Shines, a Breeze Blows and Birds Sing

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Hibiscus flowers make a stunning display throughout July.

“A perfect July day is when the sun is shining, the breeze is blowing, the birds are singing … and the lawnmower is broken!” – James Dent

Maureen Haseley-Jones is “The English Lady.”

Watering is so important during the heat of summer.

If you planted trees or shrubs this spring, particularly evergreens, these plants require extra moisture to establish a strong root system. We have had an abundant amount of rain this spring and into the summer, however it is always important to keep an eye on the weather.

WATER:

A sprinkler can be an effective watering method. Photo by Anthony Lee on Unsplash.

Here in New England, plants require at least an inch of water per week.  If you are using a regular hose, you lose 40% of moisture to evaporation. However, a hose is necessary for a deep first-watering when a plant goes into the ground and for containers.

Soaker hoses in your borders are the best method of watering, attached to a house spigot with a timer. By using this method of irrigation, moisture goes to the roots of plants where it is needed and not on the foliage, which can cause disease such as black spot and powdery mildew. Soaker hoses attached to a timer can be used efficiently not only in the borders of the garden but also in the vegetable garden, where annual vegetables, require a lot of water to produce a good crop.

In addition, composted manure added to the containers and copious amounts to the vegetable garden, helping to retain a good amount of moisture. Manure used as mulch for the vegetable garden adds more nutrition, manure as mulch  does not cap or form a hard crust, so water goes directly to the roots where it is needed.

LAWNS & HUMUS:

Photo by Chris Zhang on Unsplash.

Water the lawn only when the green glow begins to fade.  An established lawn will bounce back following dry hot spells.

I want to emphasize the importance of soil and soil health, which has been severely neglected and abused with poisonous chemicals for years. Soil is the most important element of plant growth; it is not an inert medium that merely holds the plants erect, it is a living organism that needs to be replenished with nutrients.

The nutrient is composted manure — manure builds soils structure and its bacteria partners with the millions of microbes below the surface to produce nutrients for the roots of the plants. If you have not already done so, I strongly suggest that you carefully discard all chemical fertilizers, herbicides and pesticides.

The addition of composted manure to your soil in spring, early summer and in early fall, together with the addition of natural brown bark mulch, will build the carbon compound or humus component in the soil.  We are all carbon-based creatures, as is every living element, and so this is our lifeblood and the lifeblood of the soil in our gardens.

As we build the humus component by adding composted manure and fine-bark mulch we are producing the healthiest possible growing environment and the strongest disease resistant plants.  As we add the composted manure and natural fine bark mulch season after season, the humus component continues to build in the soil, continuously extracting carbon from the atmosphere into the soil.

ROSES:

Photo by Summer Quinn on Unsplash.

These flourish beautifully with the addition of composted manure and mulch applied on the soil about two feet away from the base of the plant. Roses also require deep watering at least once a week. Now, in July add another light layer of composted manure around the roses.

Manure is food for the roots of the roses and no other products are necessary for growth and bloom. Stop adding manure to the roses in mid-August, so that the roses can move into a slow dormancy through late summer and early fall, a natural part of their growth cycle.

If you are a first time rose-grower or adding to your rose collection,

David Austin English roses are my personal preference.  The David Austin nursery is only 21 miles from my hometown in Shropshire in England; it was a fragrant pleasure to visit the nursery in June.

David Austin roses are more trouble-free than many other roses and are repeat bloomers, with beautiful colors that enhance our senses with delicious fragrances.

Some of my favorite David Austin roses are:

A Shropshire Lad (my home country in England):- a peachy pink
Abraham Darby:- shades of apricot and yellow
Evelyn (my favorite):- with giant apricot hued flowers
Fair Bianca:- a pure white rose
Heritage:- a soft blush pink
Carding Mill Valley:- begins as a peachy orange double flower before becoming an apricot-pink

A lovely combination is climbing roses and clematis planted together as both enjoy the same planting environment with their heads in the sun and their feet (roots) cool, with manure and mulch. This combination looks great, climbing over a fence, wall or arbor.

MULCH:
Do not use the artificially-colored red mulch, rubber mulch or cocoa mulch; use only natural brown bark mulch.  Do not mulch right up to the base of the plants, as this invites rodents to nest and gnaw on the stems or trunks of the plants.

Note: Do not use Cocoa mulch, produced by Hershey, this mulch has a Thorazine compound and other poisons which are hazardous to pets who are attracted by the chocolate odor. Ingestion of this chocolate mulch can cause seizures and death within hours.

HYDRANGEAS:

Photo by Summer Quinn on Unsplash.

Plant Hydrangeas in a sunny area if you live near the coast for them to enjoy gentle seas breezes. Plant them in part-sun away from the coast on the west or east aspect of the garden. Plant them in organically rich soil with composted manure and add extra composted manure around the base now in July.

If you have the blue macrophylla Hydrangea add some peat or aged oak bark around the base, the acidity in the peat or oak bark encourages a deeper blue hue. Hydrangeas are a wetland plant and require plenty of water throughout the summer. We had a late spring and with all the spring and early summer rain and good sunshine, the foliage and bloom of the hydrangeas are performing well.

Watch out for powdery mildew and spray with the following powdery mildew recipe you can mix yourself:
Two tablespoons baking soda, one dessert spoon of vegetable oil, a squirt of dish soap with a gallon of water in a sprayer.

For any recipe spray you make at home, spray only in the morning when there is no wind and when the temperature and humidity added together do not go above 180.

PRUNING HYDRANGEAS:

Prune Hydrangeas immediately after they finish blooming in late August or early September but no later, as Hydrangeas set their buds for the next season by mid September.

If you prune after September, you will lose next season’s bloom. When you prune, cut out some of the old wood and the weakest of the new shoots.

In October put more composted manure and brown mulch around the base to nourish and protect the roots through the winter.

GARLIC:

Photo by Lobo Studio on Unsplash.

Did you know that garlic is the antibiotic of the garden? I just love garlic to use in my recipes and it is an important anti-fungal element to protect your plants. I always suggest in early fall, plant more garlic.

To avoid fungal diseases plant garlic around strawberries, tomatoes and raspberries to avoid fungal diseases.

Plant garlic:-

  • around mildew-prone plants to prevent mildew on such plants as summer phlox and bee balm.
  • under fruit trees to avoid scab and root disease.
  • next to ponds or standing water to control mosquito larvae or pour garlic water into the water to deter adult mosquitoes.

Where you notice marauders, where either insects or animals have been munching, make a garlic spray to apply on the plants including vegetables.

Garlic spray recipe
4 large, crushed garlic cloves, unpeeled
2 teaspoons of vegetable oil
1 squirt of mild dish detergent

Put all ingredients in 2 cups of hot water in the blender, blend, then leave overnight, then put in a gallon sprayer with cold water and spray in the early morning when there is no wind, observing the rule of 180.  Observing the rule of 180 is when the temperature and humidity when added together do not go above 180.

Hot pepper spray:
To deter squirrels and chipmunks try a hot pepper spray using either 4 hot chilies or one cup of cayenne pepper in 2 cups of hot water, in the blender, blend and leave overnight, then put in a gallon sprayer with cold water and spray the problem areas in the early morning.

This pepper spray works well to deter squirrels, chipmunks, and deer as well as dogs and cats that may be leaving their deposits in the garden.

HANDS:
Gardener’s hands are their tools of the trade so it’s important to take care of them. My hands remain healthy by indulging in a hot cream treatment once a week before bed. 

Recipe: Combine Calendula cream with honey and essential oil of lavender heated in the microwave, apply generously and put on white cotton gloves for sleep. When I wake up my hands are soft and smooth as a baby’s bottom. Wear gloves, when working in soil that contains manure or when spreading manure. Manure is an organic product that contains bacteria; bacteria is great for the soil but like many bacteria not healthy for you. The garden gloves I prefer are the soft leather farmer’s gloves that are washable.  

FLAVORED OILS:
Many herbs are at their peak right now and are ideal for using in flavored oils.  The oil I use as a base is organic olive oil. I harvest basil, parsley, sage, tarragon and oregano in a morning, rinse them well, pat them dry with a paper towel and then make the recipe.

Chose an herb and add to two cups of oil.

For thyme and lavender, I use only the flowers with one cup of oil to a handful of blossoms.

Puree the herb mixture in a blender and store covered in a wide mouthed jar for three days, shake at least three times a day for the first two days and on the third day let the mixture settle to the bottom, then strain it through a paper coffee filter or cheese cloth into a clean jar.  You will now have a tinted but clear mixture.

Refrigerate each mixture and use within two to three weeks.  The herb oils I make are lavender, lemon, garlic, shallots and basil with olive oil as the base – these are my favorites and are great brushed on vegetables and meats for grilling.  The lavender oil is great with desserts. Rosemary and lemon oil taste excellent on salads.

MOLES:
I know I have given you a few mole remedies in the past; but I have not given you the exlax method for a while. I can attest to the fact that I have used this method as have many fellow gardeners for years, as it works.  Buy Exlax , in which the main ingredient is Senna, a natural herb. Insert Exlax into the mole holes, the moles and voles eat it then die of dehydration.

If you have dogs and cats do not use the chocolate Exlax, use only the plain Exlax as chocolate is dangerous to pets.

In early April of next year, apply organic grub control, which means less grubs for the moles to feed on, and without their supply of grubs, the moles will go elsewhere for food. In addition, the white grubs of Japanese beetles can be diminished with the grub control.

JAPANESE BEETLES:

These insects love our plants and here is a method to deal with them naturally. In the early morning, the Japanese beetles are drowsy and can be captured.  Lay a drop cloth under the plant or plants where you see them and gently shake the plant; the drowsy beetles will drop onto the cloth, which you gather up and drop them in a garbage bag and discard.

Many of us are committed to organic gardening without chemicals, which has enabled the earthworm population to once again increase; earthworms are a great boon to the garden soil as their castings add 50% nutrition to the soil together with eleven trace minerals.

SUMMER PHLOX

I just love my summer phlox and to keep the mildew problems at bay I use the natural baking soda mix I mentioned above.  I have found that white Phlox Miss Lingard or white Phlox David are more resistant to mildew that other summer phlox.  Monarda commonly known, as Bee Balm and Hydrangeas are also prone to be affected by powdery mildew, and this is where the baking soda recipe once again can be used.

For a second bloom on the Summer Phlox, prune off ten to twenty inches from the flower stems after the first bloom has gone by and within a few weeks you will experience new bloom.

KEEP YOUR GARDEN CLEAN – a healthy garden is a clean garden. Do not put any diseased items into your compost.

Deadhead all annuals and perennials for a second bloom and clean up all spend blossoms.

When Coreopsis and Spirea have bloomed, with garden shears, shear off dead flowers and they too will rebloom.

CONTAINERS:

Photo by LandscapesbyIanLLC.com.

Make sure you have composted manure and fine bark mulch applied on top of the soil in your containers and keep them watered as containers dry out quicker than garden soil. In hot weather the containers will need to be watered daily, morning and evening watering is the best. If you do not have time in a morning before you leave for work or errands, empty your ice cube trays on the containers; this provides slow -release watering until you can get to them later.

Enjoy being in the garden, stay hydrated, continue to stretch and take time to ‘smell the Roses’.

If you have any gardening questions, please email me at MaureenHaseleyJones@gmail.com and I’ll see you in your garden in August.

Also if you would like a garden consult, contact my son Ian at LandscapesbyIan.com – he is a brilliant gardening mind and as one says ‘the apple does not fall far from the tree!’

About the author: Maureen Haseley-Jones is a member of a family of renowned horticultural artisans, whose landscaping heritage dates back to the 17th century. She is one of the founders, together with her son Ian, of, The English Lady Landscape and Home Company. Maureen and Ian are landscape designers and garden experts, who believe that everyone deserves to live in an eco-conscious environment and enjoy the pleasure that it brings. Maureen learned her design skills from both her mother and grandmother, and honed her horticultural and construction skills while working in the family nursery and landscape business in the U.K. Her formal horticultural training was undertaken at the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew in Surrey.