We have been fortunate here in New England to have the pleasure of a lovely summer not too hot with adequate rain. Followed by a warm fall with more than enough rain into November to encourage healthy root growth for a vibrant spring next year.  I am keeping my fingers crossed that this weather foretells a mild winter – we can only hope, but then again, this is New England. 

With the warm fall we are enjoying, the soil is easy for digging, which to me means planting spring bulbs. So let us discuss daffodils …

Before handling these bulbs, I suggest wearing gloves as they can cause an irritation called a ‘lily rash’. Wearing gloves (I use the farmer’s soft leather gloves, which can be washed) plant the bulb at a depth of at least three times the size of the bulb with the pointed end up. Dig a trench a foot deep and scatter the bulbs in the trench at least nine inches down in the soil below the frost line. The bulbs can touch one another without a problem and by planting this way you will produce a dramatic show in spring.    

Tulip bulbs should be planted 12 inches down, getting them out of reach of rodents; tulips are the caviar of the rodent family. A suggestion to avoid this problem, before planting soak them in an organic deer repellent, and allow them to dry in the sun. This will deter other critters from eating them. Another protection is to line the planting hole with gravel.

In the spring when the bulb foliage is about four inches tall, apply  composted manure on the soil around the emerging bulb foliage. 

 I hear you saying, okay Maureen, I’m ready to plant the bulbs but what else is there to do in the garden”? Folks, there are many tasks to get you out in the garden this fall. 

The most important task is to apply a few inches of composted manure on all planted borders with a light layer of natural brown mulch on top. By doing this, you will continue to build the humus component in the soil.

Before the snow flies, any construction projects that you have in mind can be accomplished. This includes stonework and carpentry, building decks, and mending fences and building dry laid stonewalls, walkways, patios and digging ponds. This is definitely labor-intensive work, but at this time of year you won’t be uncomfortably hot. Make sure to stretch, take breaks and drink lots of water.  

When the weather is inclement, work under a construction tent when building walls, decks or digging ponds. Or build trellises, pergolas, arbors and fences in a shed or garage. The added advantage to the hard labor is that it keeps one in shape, especially with those fattening holiday meals looming on the horizon.  

If you are not able or do not want to do the work yourself, now is the time to call in a professional to do the work so that the project is completed before you plant in spring.  Each year, harsh winter wind damages much of the foliage of broadleaf evergreens. Rhododendrons, mountain laurel and azaleas are particularly vulnerable as cold wind drains them of much-needed moisture. Broadleaf evergreens with their shallow root system need a good store of water going into the winter. We have had reasonable rain but need more this fall; the rain helps the broadleaves to survive, as they will continue to lose water vapor through the cold months.  

Many of you have said that you notice the harsh winds of the past two winters caused the foliage on many rhododendrons to become brown and brittle. This happens when the soil freezes as plant roots cannot take up water to make up for moisture lost from water vapor. Dehydration is the result causing brown or wind burnt foliage.  

I don’t go overboard with wrapping large evergreens with burlap in winter. My own White Pines, Colorado blue spruce and Fraser firs are at least 50-years-old and well-established so no worries about damage. However, there are exceptions regardng plants that require a burlap wrap. Among those are evergreens planted in September, especially the Dwarf Alberta Spruce, which is extremely prone to wind burn. The Albertas should be covered with one layer of burlap, loosely wrapped.  

If the evergreens are close to a road and exposed to salt spray from snow trucks and ploughs, burlap these plants three feet up from the base may help to protect them. The best idea is not to plant them close to the road or plant salt-tolerant species like Juniper instead.

At the base of all evergreens. spread a three-inch layer of leaves or fine bark mulch, composted manure and peat around the base of the trunk. Following a heavy snowstorm when evergreen branches are weighed down with snow, gently brush the snow off with a broom.   

The leaves of the deciduous trees are falling quite quickly due to the recent wind and rain. Either you or a nimble person can climb a ladder and remove leaves from gutters and drainpipes. Water from clogged gutters and pipes falling onto foundation plantings cause damage to the plants below. But please be careful as there can be nasty injuries on falls from ladders. 

Peonies and Perennials:

After the first hard frost, cut Peonies down to within six inches from the ground, adding just a small amount of composted manure around the base.

I leave up my spent perennials until next April; I enjoy their soft grays, browns and yellows that enhance the muted hues of a winter landscape. Also our feathered friends appreciate the seed heads from the spent perennials. 

Any leftover vegetables in the vegetable garden should have been turned into the soil.  Add one part compost to three parts manure to the vegetable garden and plant a cover crop of buckwheat, alfalfa or white clover to minimize erosion. In spring, turn the cover crop into the soil, which has weathered into green manure.     

Take any of your power tools that require repair or sharpening into the shop at this time.  The repair shops are less busy now than in the spring.  Clean your tools off in a bucket of sand, the roughness of the sand will help clean off soil and debris, then oil and grease wooden handles to preserve them and prevent splinters. Hang them neatly on hooks in the garage or shed and not just “higgledy piggledy” in a pile! 

If you have an inground irrigation system, blow out the lines or have this done professionally. Also coil your hoses and store under cover and shut off outdoor faucets.

Put a bag of potting soil in the corner of the garage or basement, it will come in handy for repotting houseplants, bulb forcing or starting seeds in the spring.  A supply of peat, composted manure, sand and vermiculite is also useful.  Also put a bag of topsoil and some mulch under cover so that you can cover the shallow roots of evergreens if they become uncovered due to frost heave.  

Houseplants:

The best time to transplant houseplants is during the growing season beginning in April. However, if you need to repot some houseplants that have outgrown their containers, transplant to a clean pot only two inches larger than the original as plants like to be compact; add new potting soil and water.  

Container geraniums and begonias that you brought indoors should be placed in a sunny window to be enjoyed. In February, cut the plants down to about six inches from the soil surface and water them. 

Water houseplants, early in the day; not in the evening, as plants do not like to have wet feet at night.  Water them only when the top four inches of soil is dry to the touch. Once a month stand them in the bathtub or sink and spray the leaves with lukewarm water to remove any dust, dirt, white fly or aphids.  Do not get water on the leaves of African violets.  

Paper white Narcissus bulbs are great for forcing. I force these bulbs in pebbles; you may use potting soil if you wish; keep the pebbles or soil moist. Put the Narcissus bulbs in tall containers. I use tall clear glass vases, which help support the stems. I anchor the bulbs with pebbles, and keep the pebbles moist, then place the containers in a cool, dark place. As soon as you see root growth and the beginnings of leaf growth, bring the bowls into medium light, always keep the pebbles or soil moist at all times. 

I force about a dozen narcissus at a time and the remainder I store in the vegetable keeper in the refrigerator in a brown paper bag away from food. I bring them out and pot them up a few at a time so that I have a succession of fragrant bloom throughout the winter.  

Grow pots of parsley, dill, basil and other herbs in a sunny window, which offers delicious fresh herbs for cooking and salads through winter. 

Roses:

Remove any dead or diseased leaves from Roses and pick up any Rose debris off the ground.  If you notice disease like black spot in the debris, do not put it in your compost pile; throw it away in the garbage.  Mound soil, composted manure and mulch around the base of the Roses. The mounding helps maintain a constant temperature around the Rose. 

If the Roses are grown in an exposed area, which makes them vulnerable to drying winter winds, cover the plant with one loose layer of burlap or use a rose cone.  Make sure all climber Roses or other Vines are securely fastened to the fence or trellis.  

Set up your bird feeders where you can enjoy the birds, placed near to some low shrubs or small trees sheltered from the wind; birds like to flit from these protected spots to the feeder. Offer a varied menu for different birds.  Birds enjoy a recipe I received from my stepmother in England; a lump of suet embedded with peanuts or try hollowed-out pinecones filled with peanut butter.  

To prevent squirrels from raiding the feeders, set up a baffle and sprinkle cayenne pepper in the birdseed and on the suet feeders; the heat does not bother the birds and squirrels will stay clear.  I am aware that hungry squirrels can jump vertically five feet; but don’t worry if you happen to be a squirrel lover; they always manage to get food from some feeders.

This is the time of year when we gardeners can pause and with the previous season still fresh in your mind, say, “this worked”, and “that I will never try again”.  It is worthwhile to take a leisurely stroll around the garden before the snow falls. Look at the garden, squarely and soberly, making notes as you walk to plan for next season. Plan as you stroll, writing down your impressions, making sketches and lists and save them for your winter armchair gardening. 

Enjoy the Thanksgiving holiday and I’ll see you in your garden next month.

 Feel free to e-mail me with gardening questions at MaureenHaseleyJones@gmail.com

About the author: Maureen Haseley-Jones is a member of a family of renowned horticultural artisans, whose landscaping heritage dates back to the 17th century. She is one of the founders, together with her son Ian, of, The English Lady Landscape and Home Company. Maureen and Ian are landscape designers and garden experts, who believe that everyone deserves to live in an eco-conscious environment and enjoy the pleasure that it brings. Maureen learned her design skills from both her mother and grandmother, and honed her horticultural and construction skills while working in the family nursery and landscape business in the U.K. Her formal horticultural training was undertaken at the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew in Surrey. 

Rain through August and September has been quite plentiful, that said, our gardens need rain as do our reservoirs.   

In the meantime, if you are planning to plant evergreens; late September going into October is the best time to plant evergreens in our zone. Evergreens planted now can begin to establish strong roots before winter and providing them with adequate water is essential.

I suggest making a hole in the soil with an iron stake or other piercing instrument and feeding the hose into the hole and allowing water to reach the roots in a slow manner for at least a half hour after planting and continue to do so a few times each week until the ground freezes in November. Cover the earth around the plants with a light layer of composted manure and mulch. However, do not mulch right up to the bark of the plants as this encourages rodents to nest and gnaw on the bark of the plants. 

HYDRANGEAS

I receive many questions on pruning Hydrangeas, with fellow gardeners asking me, ‘Maureen, why did my Hydrangeas not bloom this year’? The reason that Hydrangeas do not bloom is that gardeners prune them at the wrong time. If you feel that your Hydrangea macrophylla has become too large and requires pruning, then go ahead and prune them in the first few weeks of September. The reason for so doing is that Hydrangeas set their buds for next season by the end of September; pruning any later will cut off those buds, which will negate any chance of bloom for next season or even the following season.  

Prune any old woody stems that have not bloomed well and any weak new shoots.  After pruning, apply a few inches of composted manure, and some peat, followed by a top dressing of natural brown bark mulch. The peat aids acidity in the soil, which is necessary as Hydrangeas may become chlorotic if the soil is too alkaline. By the way, chlorotic means abnormal reduction or loss of normal green coloration of the leaves of plants.

On another note, Hydrangeas do not like to be transplanted; transplanting them can result in little to no bloom for many seasons. For that reason, I suggest when planting new Hydrangeas, make sure they are at least five feet apart, so they have room to grow and to receive adequate ventilation and this way they will never need to be transplanted. 

This fall, as you contemplate your landscape, think on the past season as to what worked for you and what you will never try again. 

Unfortunately, mint has taken over the border beneath my Franklinia tree. Many years ago, my friend Roz was kindly lending a hand in the garden and planted mint in the garden instead of a large container that I placed for that very purpose. I was busy with other garden chores at that moment, so by the time I noticed the error, six months later, the mint was running rampant among the blue myrtle edging the borders. So folks, please take note that mint is extremely invasive and should only be planted in containers where its wayward habits can be controlled.

‘It is said that ‘a gardener’s work is never done’, but now with the season’s hard labor behind you, take a break. Sit outside and inhale the late garden fragrances and allow Mother Nature to anchor and relax you. 

In the early morning I enjoy sitting on my patio near my herb garden, inhaling the fragrance of the sage, which I will snip later to dry indoors and use in my recipes. I will also gather extra sage and lavender, which I will tie with string into small bunches to hang in my closets, as Lavender and Sage are natural moth repellents. That being said, a few Lavender bunches are tucked into my drawers to keep moths from devouring my woolens; this works fantastically as insects do not like fragrance. 

VEGETABLE GARDENS

In your vegetable garden, sow spinach for spring harvest and sow a cover crop like winter rye, which can be dug in next spring together with composted manure as green manure. Green manure produces an excellent growing environment for next year’s crop of vegetables. 

Now is the time to get your fall compost pile cooking with the last of the grass clippings, spent perennials, leaves and small woody twigs.  

Now is also the time to dig up, divide and replant overgrown perennials. Follow this method every three to four years to ensure vibrant bloom from these plants. Never plant or transplant any division or transplant any deeper in the soil than it is now or any deeper than the plant sits in the pot.

In the less hectic pace of fall, early autumn is the time to re-think your gardens. The garden’s pre-winter grooming will wait for a few weeks. Or you may feel that you would like to have a professional design as you have noticed that your borders are not living up to your expectations. 

If that is so, then contact someone whom you trust to create a plan in the fall and winter, which can then be phased in beginning next spring. Engage someone who will listen to your thoughts and stay within your budget. I will give you a suggestion for a plantsman and that is my son Ian whose company and website is LandscapesByIan.com. I know you would enjoy speaking with him and the saying goes, ’The apple does not fall far from the tree!’ I am sure you will enjoy meeting with him and checking out his creative talents. 

PEONIES

September is the month to plant and transplant Peonies. Do not plant them deeply or they will not bloom, that means have just enough soil to hold them erect with the ‘pink eyes’ on the roots barely covered. Plant them with a light application of composted manure around the plant. In November, following the first hard frost, cut down the Peony foliage to about four inches from the ground. 

AUTUMN COLORS, HEALTHY SOIL and SPENT PERENNIALS

In a few weeks, the bright vibrancy of autumn color will appear on the Maples. Fall’s brilliant autumn finery is the last hurrah, before winter sets in. Climbing up the red milk shed near the barn, the buds on the white autumn clematis are beginning to unfurl and in the herb garden, autumn crocus, asters and sedum are taking their curtain calls. 

For your soil to remain healthy, add a light layer of composted manure to all the borders now or in early October, together with a two-inch layer of fine bark mulch around all newly-planted and transplanted perennials and shrubs. With the application of the manure and mulch you are continuing to build the humus component, which will ensure a rich growing environment for spring and also protect the plants from winter’s harsh conditions.  

I do not cut down my spent perennials but leave them up for the birds; the ripened seed heads are a delicious treat for them to peck at. Following the vibrancy of summer bloom, I enjoy the softer subtle colors of gray, brown and yellow of the spent perennials and ornamental grasses blending naturally with the muted winter landscape, which to me offers a resting of the senses. 

FALL PLANTING

Early- to mid-October is a great time to be planting. The benefits of fall planting for trees, shrubs and perennials gives them a head start with root development over those planted in the spring.  This is especially so when we experience a late spring when planting cannot begin until late April. 

In New England’s fall, the cooler temperatures and still warm soil encourages the plants to direct their energy to produce strong roots.   

The following trees are not good candidates for fall planting: 

Birches, Larches, Gingko, Oaks, Magnolia, and all flowering fruit and flowering trees as well as the Eastern Red Cedar.  These trees have fleshy roots and their feeder roots are not large when young and take time to establish and therefore are susceptible to frost heave.

Some perennials that do not like to be planted in fall are Artemisia, Lambs Ears, Foxglove, Penstemon, Anemone, Campanula, Kniphofia, Lupines, Scabiosa, Ferns and Grasses. 

Plant garlic this month for harvest next June – garlic is the antibiotic of the garden. Plant it under fruit trees to avoid scab and root disease, near to ponds or standing water to control mosquito larvae or pour garlic water into ponds, bird baths and fountains to deter adult mosquitoes. 

BARGAINS

This is a good time to pick up end-of-season plant bargains. Most nurseries and garden centers have lowered their prices so they do not have to winter plants over in the nursery. If you do purchase a few plants, keep your eyes open for the following problems:

> POTBOUND PLANTS – check the bottom of the pot to see if the roots are growing through the holes.  If not, gently tap the plant out of the container to see if it has a network of overlapping roots that wrap around the root ball.  It is possible to salvage a root bound plant, which is suffering from water and nutrient deficiencies over the summer, but it will be slow to root. Before you plant this one in your garden, cut the encircling roots – the roots will now be shorter and will take to rooting easier. 

> DISEASED PLANTS – plants that have been in containers all summer and have been fed high nitrogen fertilizers are easy targets for pests and diseases.  Check for spots on the foliage, wilted or curling leaves and discolored roots. As well as visible signs of pest damage and infestation such as webbing or sticky residue on foliage.  Not only would these plants do poorly in the garden but could infect your other plants and the soil.  Soil born diseases are the most difficult to deal with.

> BADLY SHAPED PLANTS – Badly shaped plants are the ‘Charlie Brown’ Christmas trees of the plant world, the unwanted orphans that have been passed over year after year; these are the runts of the litter!  Do not set yourself up for disappointment looking at an ugly tree or shrub just to save a few dollars.

> MIS-LABLED PLANTS – At the end of the season many plant tags have been lost or mixed up, which means you are likely to get a perennial with flowers that are not the color you expected. Or you may buy a deciduous tree or shrub when you were looking for an evergreen variety.  Stick to the plants that are part of large displays of identically labeled plants or with labels so firmly attached that look like they have been there for a while.

With all the above-mentioned plants – always add composted manure around the plant and do not plant any deeper than it is in its pot or burlap wrapping. Always wear gloves when working with manure; there is bacteria in the manure – great for the soil but not healthy for you. 

Please note that the bargain you get is often not worth the discount price. 

NEW LAWN OR PATCH SEEDING

September and early October is an excellent time to plant new grass, the young grass plants will have the advantage over weeds. Do not buy cheap seed, you reap what you sow! 

Gently de-thatch the areas that you wish to overseed or patch. Do not use the large thatching machines, which can damage existing grass. Add some composted manure to the area, broadcast the seed and cover the newly seeded grass area with salt hay (free from weed seed). Do not allow the soil surface to dry out, keep it moist. Water gently, and do not saturate the area or the seed will wash away. 

When the grass appears, stay off it, do not mow and leave the salt hay to rot. Next spring, a healthy lawn will emerge and if there are a few bare patches in April, you can fill in the bare spots. 

SPRING BULBS

I hope your spring bulb orders are in by now. Be adventurous this year and go for masses of a single color for the greatest impact. No matter how small your planting area, it is the intensity that counts, with two or three dozen red Tulips or a hundred Daffodils planted on your woodland edge. 

Buying daffodils in large numbers is less expensive, the bulbs are usually smaller – this is not a problem as daffodil bulbs grow larger each year. Even though many say the spacing between these larger bulbs should be six inches, there is no reason they cannot touch.  

Put some composted manure or bulb food on the soil where the bulbs are planted. Make sure you plant the Daffodils eight inches below the frost line, with the pointed end up. Wear gloves when you plant bulbs as they have a skin irritant, which may cause a rash.

If you cannot plant your bulbs when you receive them, store them in a cool, dry place in paper bags.  The best time to plant spring bulbs in the Northeast is the end of October to the middle of November.

Lily of the Valley can be transplanted this month, but wear gloves because there is toxicity in this plant.  

Dig up your gladioli corms, Calla bulbs, Elephant Ear bulbs and Dahlia tubers when the foliage turns yellow.  Lay them in the sun to “cure” and store them in a cool, dry dark place. When you dig the Dahlia tubers, do not pull them, pulling can break the tubers. 

HOUSEPLANTS & STONEWORK

In early September after their summer sojourn outdoors, take your houseplants indoors and wash the foliage gently and repot with new potting soil into a clean container. Repot those plants that have outgrown their pots to a clean container that is only one size larger. 

Fall and early winter is a great time to do stonework – dry laid paths, walls and patios. As well as repairing fences, arbors and pergolas and build decks. Paint wooden outdoor furniture with eco-conscious paint before putting them undercover for winter.    

September is a gardener’s paradise; the air is cooler, the soil easy to work and you will not overheat with the effort. Stay awhile in your garden and enjoy the comforting fragrance of fall.       

I’ll see you in your garden next time.  Feel free to e-mail me with gardening questions at MaureenHaseleyJones@gmail.com

About the author: Maureen Haseley-Jones is a member of a family of renowned horticultural artisans, whose landscaping heritage dates back to the 17th century. She is one of the founders, together with her son Ian, of, The English Lady Landscape and Home Company. Maureen and Ian are landscape designers and garden experts, who believe that everyone deserves to live in an eco-conscious environment and enjoy the pleasure that it brings. Maureen learned her design skills from both her mother and grandmother, and honed her horticultural and construction skills while working in the family nursery and landscape business in the U.K. Her formal horticultural training was undertaken at the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew in Surrey.