This winter, as in other winters; when I need a blossom boost, I enjoy the fragrance of paper white narcissus that I planted in tall glass vases. I surrounded the bulbs with seashells from White Sand Beach here in Old Lyme and kept them in a dark cool area keeping the shells and the bulbs moist as the roots developed. 

When the bulb foliage reached about six inches, I moved the bulbs in their vases into indirect light, which encourages the blooms to open.  Each morning on entering my lounge, I am met with the fragrance of these beautiful bulbs, which makes me feel refreshed and ready for my day. 

I keep extra bulbs in a brown paper bag in the vegetable retainer in the refrigerator. I plant these bulbs when the first blooms have gone by and with this method, I have a succession of blooms and fragrance permeating my home into spring. 

Before you know it, spring will be upon us together with the anticipation that resides in all of us gardeners, which is to get outdoors and plunge our hands into the soil. 

That being said, there is so much to look forward to and I feel I must once again stress the importance for all of us to garden organically. 

In this country and around the world, the results of pollution and chemicals are just some of the factors that are causing climate change. We are in a crisis, with invaders that have already battered down the gates and invaded our gardens. These invaders are destroying Mother Nature and your health in the form of poisonous pesticides and herbicides. The main producers of these poisons are Monsanto, Bayer and other biological monsters, who have been decimating our planet, our soil, human health and committing all those crimes purely for selfish profit.

Bees, for example, have been killed in the millions, because the EPA under the Trump administration allowed the spraying of over 14 million acres of land, with poisonous chemicals. Please note folks, that bees pollinate 70 percent of the world’s food and their demise is our demise. 

Last year was recorded as the hottest year on record. Drought in the west of this country, resulted in dry tinder conditions, causing devastating fires that brought death and destruction to people in California, Oregon and Colorado. This extreme weather pattern continues here, bringing tornadoes and extreme flooding, followed by even stronger hurricanes due to the rise of our oceans, which is the result of warming water. 

Across the world, extreme weather patterns have also had a tragic effect on extreme drought in Africa causing famine and death to that region and terrible earthquakes as we have seen in Turkey, Northern Syria, Japan and China. I am glad that the government in this country has begun to seriously address the Climate Crisis, but much more needs to be done. 

As gardeners, it is our task to help counteract these negative changes by using only organic methods of gardening on our own plots of land; what we do in our own gardens contributes to healing the planet. Over the span of 25 years on my radio show WRCH 100.5 FM and through my Garden Earth lectures, I have received a commitment from thousands of people to discard all poisonous herbicides and pesticides and to garden organically. The response had been tremendously positive in the production of organic gardens grown in healthy soil. 

It begins with what you put into the soil for the growth of the plants, and this is accomplished by adding liberal doses of my favorite stuff – aged manure, which is manure that you may procure, either from the farm or in bags from the garden center.   

The following, is a paragraph from a book I am writing on gardening and the vital importance of the humus component to our gardens:

In 1937, Franklin D Roosevelt said that ‘the nation that destroys its soil destroys itself’

America has not heeded that warning. Precious soils in this country and around the world are being destroyed by dangerous practices in industrialized agriculture and poisonous chemicals, which completely disrupts our ecosystem and poisons all living things.

In your own garden you can build and retain a rich growing environment by building the humus component—we are all carbon-based creatures as is all life on earth. Not only humans but also our soil microbes need carbon to flourish. And to attract carbon from the atmosphere into your soil, you need to build the humus component. 

HOW TO BUILD THE HUMUS COMPONENT

Do not till soil—tilling breaks up soil structure.  

First step – Add composted manure three times each season—beginning in spring when the soil has reached a temperature of 50 degrees.  If the soil has not reached that temperature, the soil organisms are not able to work with the bacteria in the manure to produce nutrients for the roots of the plants.  Purchase a soil thermometer to check the soil’s temperature. This year, following deep frosts, the soil temperature may reach 50 degrees by the end of April to early May.  Add the manure again in July to continue to nourish your growing plants and again in October to protect and nourish the roots of your plants through the winter.  Manure is not a fertilizer; it builds soil structure and works with all the soil animals to keep a healthy, disease-free growing environment.  

Second step – Add wood chips in the form of brown, fine bark mulch or wood chips that you produce from your garden or aged wood chips with a combination of leaves, twigs and branches. 

These two major steps build the humus component. If you do this in your garden, not only will you help to heal the planet but you will also produce the healthiest of gardens. 

A question I am often asked is, ‘Can I put manure over mulch for example on my midsummer garden in July?’ The answer is a resounding ‘Yes’ – the manure together with nature’s moisture and your own irrigation enables the manure to find its way easily into the soil and the roots of your plants.     

WHAT EXACTLY DOES HUMUS DO?

Humus acts like a sponge and can hold 90 percent of its weight in water.

Due to its negative charge, plant nutrients stick to humus for nitrogen, calcium, phosphorus and other elements,. This, in turn, prevents these nutrients from washing away and acts as nature’s slow-release fertilizer throughout the year.

Humus improves soil structure making it loose and friable, which helps plants root in the soil with better access to nutrients, water and oxygen.

Humus also helps to filter’ toxic chemicals from the soil, much like carbon-based water filtration systems that filter toxins from your water. 

We cannot control industrialized agricultural practices, however, in your own garden you can make a difference.   Feed the soil, and it will feed the plants. 

This week I spoke with my friend Ann, who lives in Cheshire, in England, which is next door to my home county of Shropshire. Ann is an avid gardener and she told me that her daffodils are well above the soil and last week she started to plant seeds in the greenhouse. I was so envious, when Ann told me of her garden bloom, but our time will soon come. 

PLANTING SEEDS

February 20 to March 20 is the time for serious indoor seed planting here. Check which garden centers are stocking organic seeds or go online for the organic varieties – one company that I use is “Botanical Interests”.  Do not go overboard when buying packs of seeds as there are about 500 seeds in each packet.  If you do purchase too many – have a seed sharing party with gardening friends.  

Equipment to have on hand for seed planting are cheap envelopes (you probably have envelopes you discard from your mail), fresh sterilized potting soil mix, and sphagnum moss. Also seed trays, egg cartons and cardboard milk containers that are cut down also work well.  Make sure all containers are scrupulously clean. Sphagnum moss works well as a planting medium as the moss can prevent a soil born fungus that causes “damping off” which causes seeds to rot before germination.  I have, together with many gardening friends, used this method for years and have not lost  seeds  to “damping off”. 

For tiny seeds, I use the moss as the planting mix and for larger seeds, I install a topsoil base and a layer of the moss on top of the soil. I mix fine seeds with sand before I sow; this method helps to loosen them up. Soak the seeds overnight before planting and just before planting spray them with warm water, never cold as cold water can delay germination. When they have germinated, water gently. 

The best method of watering seedlings is to water from the bottom. But, if you feel you must top water, just mist with a fine sprayer, otherwise you will drown the delicate seeds, washing them out of the planting mix. Use new sterilized soil when seeding and do not use any leftover soil from last season, Leftover soil from the previous year can develop disease, which can ruin your seedling crops.  If you are growing seedlings on a windowsill, place them on a south or west-facing sill; seedlings need light, not heat to thrive. 

WINTER CARE OF HOUSEPLANTS

I love my houseplants year round but in winter the blooming ones in particular lift my spirits.  I talk to my plants enjoying my cyclamen and my blooming cacti, and the different foliage on the ivy, philodendron and spaphyllum which also clean the air in a stuffy home environment. 

Keep your houseplants away from draughts and direct heat. If you are able, place humidifiers and air purifiers in the rooms of your home, which will benefit not only the plants but also your own health. Place pebble trays under the plants and keep the pebbles moist for additional humidity. 

Spray houseplants every few days with lukewarm water and once every couple of weeks, put the plants in a sink or bathtub and allow lukewarm water to run freely over the plant to remove dust from the leaves and clean salt residue from the soil. The exception to the spray or soak rule is African violets, as African violets do not do well with wet leaves. 

Aphids and white fly thrive indoors in winter and an organic sulphur solution called Safer works well to clean the soil of insect eggs and from the foliage. Perhaps you are fortunate like me to have Ladybugs in your home in winter; if so, allow these useful creatures to roam freely; the ladybug menu is aphids and white flies.  

The best time to repot houseplants is from April through June but if a plant has become root bound with no visible soil, then you can repot them in February. Water the plant to loosen the roots from the soil, turn it sideways on a newspaper and gently slide it from the pot.  

Cut away any dead roots and repot in fresh potting soil in a clean pot that is only two inches larger than the original.  With the plant firmly in place and the soil one inch from the rim, water it gently and do not fertilize with an organic fertilizer until April.  Plants need this dormant period to recharge. 

A few suggestions for trouble free foliage plants in the home are Rubber plants, Spider plants, Ivy, Philodendron, Monstera and Spaphyllum. If you have a sunny window Aloes, Succulents and Cacti do great and are a trouble- free variety.   

Blooming plants sitting side by side with foliage plants, enjoying one another’s company, give one an impression of a miniature garden.

A few suggestions of houseplants that bloom are Cyclamen, African Violets, Kalanchoe, Primulas and Paper white narcissus. To prevent pets from chewing on the plants, add some cayenne pepper to the water when watering.  I also enjoy my herbal plants, which sit in a sunny window. My favorites are Rosemary, Basil and Parsley which are great additions to any recipe.             

POWER TOOLS

Check any power tools that require maintenance or repair. February or March is the time to get them into the repair shop, because as soon as the weather breaks the shops get busy and you may not get your lawn mower back until August.  

Check all tools and implements in the garage or shed. If you did not clean them off at the end of last season, plunge the shovels and spades into a bucket of sand; sand is an abrasive and will clean off any leftover soil and manure residue.  Oil the wooden handles of tools with Linseed oil or some inexpensive vegetable oil; oil feeds the wood and keeps the handles splinter free. At the same time, check your hoses and fittings that may have sprung leaks since last year.

Make a shopping list of new tools that are needed – there are lots of sales in late winter for you to get a good deal.  However, I suggest that you buy only quality tools and hoses; as the saying goes, “you get what you pay for”. Also check that there is enough twine, bamboo rods, wire ties or nails and peat on hand. 

BUYING MANURE

In March or early April, when soil and manure are available. purchase bags of composted manure from the garden center. On the other hand, if you have a farm close in your local area, that sells aged manure, acquire a small truck to acquire a load.  If you decide on that method, ask the farmer for manure from the bottom of the pile – aged stuff.  Manure needs to be at least six months old before applying to your soil, as fresh manure will burn your plants.    

ALL THINGS PAINT-RELATED

Check the paintwork on your wooden fences, arbors, decks and any other outdoor wooden structures. Then, purchase paint supplies so that on a dry day in March for painting, everything will be on hand.  

Don’t forget to put paintbrushes on your list – I have a feeling you forgot to clean your old brushes last season, which means they are stiff as a poker, also remember sandpaper, brush cleaner and if  possible, buy eco conscious paint.  If you are painting benches and garden seats on a dry day, put them under cover before sundown. 

White walls in the greenhouse reflect light so any areas that need retouching, use white paint. It’s so rewarding to see how much lighter and brighter the greenhouse is after a touch of paint and the glass is cleaned.  However meticulously clean and tidy your greenhouse, you may find that white fly, greenfly and scale insects have found their way inside the greenhouse for warmth and so it may be necessary to spray with an organic spray. I mix an organic spray of orange peels in white vinegar and allow it to sit for two weeks before spraying – this works well and is very economical.   

Walking around a garden that looks and feels good in mid-winter is a real pick-me-up. Patterns emerge created by paths, walls and hedges. As you walk, enjoy the shapes of shrubs, the shadows of evergreens and the strong silhouettes of tree trunks and enjoy their shape and bark without foliage.  

BIRD-FEEDERS

I love to watch the birds in their quick flights across the garden to alight on the feeders, and their sudden bursts of song when the sun peaks through. It is so much fun to watch the “pecking” order and see the blue jays, who can be bullies and red cardinals, who—like the blue jays—can be rather territorial. Bringing up the rear, come the finches and house sparrows. And sometimes a bird appears that I do not recognize and out come my binoculars and Peterson bird book. 

If you notice squirrels swarming the bird feeders, add some cayenne pepper to the birdseed; if that occurs do not be concerned as the heat from the cayenne does not affect birds.  And you may choose a spot away from the feeders to sprinkle cayenne-free birdseed on the ground so the squirrels can also enjoy a meal. 

Winter has its own distinctive fragrance, the fog, in the morning when the air is very heavy, thick and damp—a dampness even more bone-chilling than rain.  I can deal with that for a while in the knowledge that in about six weeks I will be inhaling the healthy nose-clearing fragrance of the soil, rich and brown, well manured or covered with wood mulch, shredded leaves or salt hay.

Winter fragrances are a potpourri, one moment sharp and cold like the north wind, whereas spring’s flavors are light and sweet.

If you find you have spent year after year throwing good money after bad, then it may be time to get a professional design. If that is so, don’t hesitate! If you want work to begin in the spring, a design takes time to complete. You may want to contact a professional landscape designer like my son Ian, whose company website LandscapesbyIan.com shows his lovely, natural landscape creations. Ian will work with you and your budget. 

Have a great month and I’ll see you in your garden in March. 

If you have any gardening questions, feel free to email me at MaureenHaseleyJones@gmail.com

About the author: Maureen Haseley-Jones is a member of a family of renowned horticultural artisans, whose landscaping heritage dates back to the 17th century. She is one of the founders, together with her son Ian, of, The English Lady Landscape and Home Company. Maureen and Ian are landscape designers and garden experts, who believe that everyone deserves to live in an eco-conscious environment and enjoy the pleasure that it brings. Maureen learned her design skills from both her mother and grandmother, and honed her horticultural and construction skills while working in the family nursery and landscape business in the U.K. Her formal horticultural training was undertaken at the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew in Surrey. 

Happy New Year, everyone!

Well, here we go, as you sit in your arm chair and dream about fragrant bloom and delicious vegetables in your garden. However, it is never too early to plan for this season in your garden. My motto has always been to plan, before action and production.

Mother Nature is waiting for us with her gifts of renewal, growth and nourishment as we begin to plan for the coming season. She tells us that in this wonderful pastime called ‘gardening,’ we can escape from the trials and tribulations of our world. Each day we move gradually from the dark into the light to a longer, brighter day to welcome spring.

A few weeks ago, I retrieved my second batch of Narcissi from the brown paper bag in the refrigerator and planted them on pebbles, with just enough pebbles to anchor the bulbs in place, or you may use potting soil. I use tall glass vases, and make sure to keep the pebbles moist with just enough water to cover the bottom of each bulb.

I brought my Rosemary plant indoors in September; Rosemary is not hardy outdoors in Zone 6. I spray the plant twice weekly with warm water and run a cold-water humidifier and two germ guardian air cleaners with UV lights for personal health and the health of my plants.  

After planting the paper white Narcissi, I placed them in a dark, cool closet until the foliage was about four inches tall. Today I moved them from the dark closet to a cool room, that has indirect light and where the temperature remains at about 65 degrees.

When the buds are almost ready to open, I will place them in a brighter area to be enjoyed, not only for their bloom but also the heady fragrance which permeates the house. The new bloom draws me out of the winter doldrums and their gentle fragrance lifts my spirits. 

As you know the severe negative changes that are occurring with global warming, together with pollution in the air, water and the earth, are severely damaging our planet. Your personal contribution to saving our planet is to tend the soil organically with compost, manure and natural brown mulch, which builds the humus component in your soil. With this organic method, your plants and vegetables will thrive … as will you.  

Throughout the year, allow your garden to anchor you, connecting heart, body, mind and spirit to Mother Nature’s life-giving bountiful gifts and spiritual energy.  

The cold harsh winds of January and February extract moisture from trees and shrubs, especially the evergreens. These winds are more harmful to plants than cold temperatures, not only causing plant breakage but also soil erosion. To help counteract these effects, it’s useful to have a few bags of topsoil and mulch in the garage. With these items on hand, any roots can be covered after they become exposed by wind or frost heave. Roots exposed to the elements for any length of time can kill the plant, so when you notice exposed roots, quickly cover exposed areas with the soil and mulch. When spring arrives and the earth warms up, the plant can be resettled in place together with composted manure and natural brown mulch to provide protection and nutrition.

On a sunny day this January, take a walk round the garden and breathe in the freshening air—as you walk, make some notes and decide what worked for you last year and what you will never try again. 

Later, back indoors, relaxing in your armchair, browse through the catalogues that began arriving a few months ago. You have already begun making lists of plants that you are thinking of buying. However, a word of caution when gazing at the photos, which are meant to tempt you with their lovely but “doctored” pictures of plants. Do not allow your imagination to run amok and be caught up in the fantasy of the high-maintenance garden pictures you see in the catalogues.

Instead, suit your garden to your lifestyle as to what will work within your own time-frame and physical abilities. If you follow that construct, you will have the time to sit, relax and smell the roses, and not being exhausted by too much garden toil and quite often disappointed in the final results.    

As you sit and plan for the coming season, it’s important to keep your budget in mind. It’s hard to believe as you look outside at the muted landscape, that in a few months, sunshine and gentle breezes will warm the soil and new growth will appear. 

When the soil is dry enough to tread on, winter debris can be carefully be cleared away. Then, cut a clean edge on the borders; this simple task makes such a difference to the look of a garden. Then in mid-April, add that lovely layer of manure and compost (the ratio being three parts manure to one part compost). With that preparation completed, you are ready for the fun stuff—the placing and planting!  

For those of you, who are vegetable gardeners and look forward to a bountiful year with fruits and vegetables, spring rain, extra irrigation and sunshine will produce that delicious bounty. 

As spring advances so will the appearance of both good and bad insects—moles, voles and other critters—that can be dealt with naturally. I will share my remedies for this problem in an upcoming gardening letter.

Your memory of your garden from last season may be lost in the enthusiasm of a new season, therefore, I am asking you to be kind to yourself. If last year you became overwhelmed with too much work labor and no time to relax and enjoy your garden; the following are some ideas, you can enact to rectify that problem:-

For example, send some of your borders back to grass, and if you are tired of grass-mowing, spread wildflower seeds in the grass and enjoy the pleasure of a prairie meadow.

Also, make some of the high-maintenance perennial borders into mixed shrub borders. To accomplish this, take out some of those perennials and donate them to a worthy cause. In their place, plant small and medium size evergreen shrubs; some green, blue and some of the lovely gold species of evergreens.  With these shrubs, which display all-season beauty, add small flowering deciduous trees and shrubs that begin flowering in April and successively through June. 

The Carlesii viburnum, also known as Korean Spice, is a favorite small shrub of mine, with its white buds that open to a pale pink with the most delightful fragrance.  

Plant a Ben Franklin tree with its white cup like blooms and gold center that flowers in August through September. 

Nestle three Blue Mist shrubs in the mixed border; this plant will delight with purple blooms and fragrant leaves into September. 

On a fence or trellis, plant white autumn clematis.

Add a groundcover as an evergreen framework – my favorite is Myrtle with its glossy leaves and miniature blue flowers that bloom in April.    

For the children or grandchildren in your family, I believe it is never too soon to introduce your children and grandchildren to the wonders of the garden by bringing garden fairies into their lives. Through the years I have asked children to draw a picture of the garden fairy and make a list of questions to ask the fairies, who live in the wild patch in the garden. We all have a wild patch in the garden; and at this point you may be saying, “Maureen, my garden is one large ‘wild patch!’ 

Children became so excited and enthused about their lists and pictures of the fairies; as what you are showing them is nature’s transformation of science into magic. These days we seem to have forgotten about fairy tales, dreams and magic; it’s way past time to bring those wonderful energies back into our lives and into the lives of our children.  

In spring and through summer, I would find my children or their friends impatiently checking the garden wanting to see their own planting efforts come into bloom. In the vegetable garden they gathered to check what was ready to eat from the produce they had planted. I have found that this introduction to the garden has inspired the children and when they become adults, they enthusiastically plant and tend gardens of their own.

My son Ian is a great example of this as he has partnered with me through the years in the garden and is living proof of the old adage, ‘The student is better than the teacher.’ Ian is a designer par excellence and I invite you to check his website at LandscapesbyIan.com and his Facebook page for lovely examples of his work. 

In my March gardening tips, I’ll offer you some suggestions of ornamental trees, shrubs and long blooming perennials. With that list in hand, I suggest that you buy your plants from local garden centers as these centers carry tried and true plants that will flourish in Zone 6.  

On the other hand, if you feel that over the years, you have been throwing good money after bad and you are becoming desperate as you feel that your garden, no matter what you do, never looks right. Then, get in touch with a landscape company, who will keep your budget in mind whether you want to do your own work, or wish for a design to install yourself.  

On the other hand, when you are planning your garden for this coming season, there are important facts to keep in mind:  

What are the requirements for sun, shade, soil, and water of the plants? 

Will they survive in this zone, Zone 6?  

What are the growth patterns of the plants?  Do they grow fast or slow?  

You do not want a 50 ft.tree up against the house with tremendous roots that will play havoc with the foundation of your home. Or do you want that lovely but very large, Catawbiense Rhododendron, all 10 ft. of it, climbing through your dining room window in five years? 

To find those facts, either check the plants in a book, on the Internet or read the labels attached to the plants in the nursery. 

Check every aspect of the plant before you buy. The red or green Lace-Leaf Japanese Maple looks lovely in spring but is it something you can enjoy, without its leaves in the winter? Personally, I not only enjoy the foliage of plants and trees, but also the shape and bark of trees without foliage in winter.  

For those of you just beginning to garden, I must be honest and dispense with the myth that gardening is always a relaxing hobby. At the end of that first day of digging, lugging soil, manure and fertilizer, and planting everything at the proper depth; you will feel somewhat exhausted.  

At that juncture, you remember that you still need to water the newly-installed plants as you drag your tired body to switch on the hose. Thank goodness, the mulching can wait until tomorrow or next weekend.   

Watering can be meditative to some of us, myself included. Imagine that the hose is your umbilical cord so that as you nourish the earth and the plants, the earth can nourish you. 

By now the sun has gone down, and you trudge indoors muttering to yourself, “What the heck did I get myself into?” To this comment I say, “You did not have to tackle all of the garden in one day”.  

In gardening, there is always tomorrow, or next week, and even though the label says to plant it by the end of May or June, believe me folks, a few weeks later does not matter, the garden will wait for you.  

You may be saying to yourself at this point, “Maureen, are you trying to put us off gardening”? No folks, but I would remiss, as someone who has gardening in my blood (as well as manure!) for over 400 years to tell you, however reluctantly, not only the pleasures, but some of what can cause aches and pains.

The idea is not to bite off more than you can chew. For first-time gardeners, don’t scatter your energies all over the garden, rather tackle and complete one area at a time. That area should be priority one until it is complete.  

If you have a new home with no landscaping, some hardscape may be required. Hardscape is walls, walkways, patios, ponds, decks and so on. The sound and look of a water feature in the garden is delightful and need not be elaborate—a fountain is fine—the reflection of water is Mother Nature’s mirror. If you are not able to do this construction yourself, get in touch with a landscape contractor now, so that a plan can be done now, installed and ready by spring. I say to connect now as Ian tells me that many landscape products are short on supply this year.   

These endeavors mean you getting yourself in shape physically, so get off that couch, put away the catalogues and your plant lists, stretch, then wrap yourself up in warm gear and take that walk.   

As you walk, look at the trees in winter, the elegant shape of them, the lichen on the stonewalls, and the moss tucked in cracks and crevices. Clear your mind and allow nature’s spirit to surround you. As you walk, look at a few gardens in your neighborhood; gardens that you have admired when they were in bloom, and see what they look like in winter.  

I remember one of my professors saying to me when I studied at the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew, “In winter, you can tell a really good landscape by its bones, without the flesh of flora and foliage.” In spring, get in touch with those neighbors whose gardens you admired and ask them some of the secrets of their garden. They will be happy to talk with you, not only of their successes but their failures—true gardeners are realists when they speak about their gardens and love to share.  

Well folks, I’ve given you plenty to think about right now so enjoy your daydreaming of the season to come and I’ll see you next month in your garden.

If you have any questions, feel free to email me at MaureenHaseleyJones@gmail.com

About the author: Maureen Haseley-Jones is a member of a family of renowned horticultural artisans, whose landscaping heritage dates back to the 17th century. She is one of the founders, together with her son Ian, of, The English Lady Landscape and Home Company. Maureen and Ian are landscape designers and garden experts, who believe that everyone deserves to live in an eco-conscious environment and enjoy the pleasure that it brings. Maureen learned her design skills from both her mother and grandmother, and honed her horticultural and construction skills while working in the family nursery and landscape business in the U.K. Her formal horticultural training was undertaken at the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew in Surrey. 

Hello everyone; so much to do and so little time in this holiday season …

Remember, to breathe, stretch and take time out for yourself each day. On a pleasant December day, go out into the garden. There is still time to plant your spring bulb; the earth is still workable so enjoy the fresh air and the gentle exercise.

Plant the bulbs three times as deep as they measure in their upright position. For example, Daffodils should be planted nine inches down below the frost line, spread composted manure, which hopefully you stored in the shed or garage, on the soil where the bulbs are planted.

Don’t worry if you do not have the manure now, as when the bulbs peak up from the soil in spring, you can obtain the composted manure then and spread it around the emerging bulbs at that time.

Right now, it is a sunny afternoon, and I am sitting in my armchair with a delicious cup of Earl Grey tea, inhaling the air wafting from the kitchen, bringing with it the fragrance of cloves. Clove fragrance is an old family tradition that I follow each December, when I fill my great-grandmother’s brass saucepan with water, then add whole cloves, bring the water to the boil, then turn it down to simmer gently. 

The fragrance is a special memory of Christmas in the kitchen of Gran’s thatched roof cottage on the grounds of our plant nursery in England. 

On this side of ‘The Pond’, in early winter before snow falls or even on a sunny day with snow on the ground, there are construction projects that can be accomplished with patios, decks, ponds, and dry stonewalls to repair and build. By accomplishing these tasks in winter, you will be ready to plant in spring. 

If you are not into heavy work, I suggest you call a landscape company that you trust to give you an estimate for your project. In fact, if you would like to get in touch with my son Ian, at LandscapesByIan.com for an estimate or a consult on stonework work or a design for the spring. Ian has been telling me that there is a scarcity of building supplies right now, which might hinder your projects for your garden, unless you act early, like right now.

I am sure that snow will be with us before long, so I hope you have the snow shovel handy or perhaps you decide you need a new one? If so, buy a lightweight wood- handle and plastic shovel instead of heavy metal.

When the storm has passed and you are ready for clearing the paths and driveways, don’t load the shovel heavily, scoop lighter loads. You will get done faster and with less aches and pains, or chance of injury.

If you are not able to clear the snow yourself from driveways, walkways and steps; I’m sure there are some teenagers in your neighborhood who would be willing to help you out.

We need the moisture from the snow for the soil and plants and I hope that we also get a good amount of rain to carry us through to spring.  

If you have not already done so, mulch around the trunks of roses, mounding at least six to nine inches up the stems. As I mentioned earlier, buy a few extra bags of mulch and topsoil, and store them in the garage or shed.  

Tie down the long whip-like rose canes of climbers to supporting structures so they are not broken off by strong winds. If the shrub roses are planted in an exposed area, cover them with a rose cone or if they are larger, cover them lightly with burlap until April.  

I just walked into my living room to check on my Amaryllis bulbs, which have striped blooms. Amaryllis can be enjoyed for a long time with little effort. 

As the flower buds begin to open, remove the pollen bearing anthers with tweezers, before they begin to shed—this will add days to the flowering period and remember to water.

Once the bloom is finished, deadhead it, remove the bulb from the soil and let it dry off. Store in a cool dark basement or some other cool dry place at about 55 degrees for10 weeks without watering. When you want to start it again, pot up the bulb tightly in fresh potting soil and begin to water again. 

By the way, Amaryllis is poisonous so do not let children or animals eat the flowers.  

Outside my kitchen window I can see the holly bush with lovely red berries, some of which I cut to decorate the house. Holly is a good weather predictor; few berries mean a mild winter, whilst many berries denote a harsh one.  My red and black friends, the ladybugs, have begun to come indoors, earning their keep by consuming white fly and aphids, which often gather on houseplants.      

This week, in the house, I am planting up my first group of paper white narcissus to get a head start on bloom in about a month. I store two dozen bulbs in the vegetable keeper of the refrigerator, away from the food.  I plant half of them now and store the rest in a paper bag in the refrigerator, which I will plant later. With this method I will have continuous bloom and fragrance through the winter months. By keeping the bulbs in the refrigerator, they stay dormant, until planted. 

I plant my bulbs in pebbles, with just enough pebbles to anchor the bulbs and enough depth for the roots to grow. Cram a lot of bulbs in the pot so they are touching – the more bulbs, the more vibrant the display. Make sure the bulb pots do not have drainage holes; if they do, cover the holes with shards of broken pottery.  

I place the planted bulbs in a dark cool room or cupboard, always keeping the pebbles moist. In a few weeks, when the shoots of the narcissus are about six inches tall, I take the vases into a cool room on the south side of the house and place them about six feet away from the window in indirect light where they remain, keeping the pebbles moist until the buds appear.

When the buds appear and the stems are about 12 inches tall, bring them into the area of the house to be enjoyed. Always place them about six- foot from a sunny window and away from draughts and heat. Keep the soil or pebbles moist throughout the life of the plants.

I know that the stems of paper whites get leggy and often topple over. My tall glass vases do not allow this to occur but if you don’t have tall containers, here is a suggestion to keep the plant upright.

An English gardening colleague of mine gave me his ‘gin tip’. He pours a dessertspoon of gin (not the expensive stuff) on the soil or pebbles around the plants every couple of weeks after he has watered them. This limits the height of the stems, so they do not collapse, and the gin does not affect the bloom.

Regarding alcohol, another tip my grandmother whispered is to add a few drops of brandy or port to invigorate potpourri that has gone stale. Personally, I pour a few drops of either lemon oil or lavender oil on the potpourri. 

I know that many of you spread salt on walkways, and driveways to thaw ice. However, the salt ruins plants, when it seeps into borders. Use an alternative like unscented kitty litter or sand that works well. In spring, just hose off steps and paths; the sand and kitty litter are good additions to your soil.

There is still time to prune dead or diseased branches from established deciduous trees and shrubs; it is an easier task to do at this time of year, as you are able to see what needs to be done without foliage obstructing your view. If you would like to have a fall pruning, call a reputable arborist to give you a quote and a team will come and use their practiced eyes to give you a great result.

Last winter, squirrels, raccoons or whomever, got into the birdseed in the milk shed.  I bought out the supermarket’s supply of cayenne pepper that week and sprinkled it on my birdseed to keep the marauders at bay. This trick will also keep those critters out of your garbage. I also sprinkle cayenne pepper in the bird seeders for the feeders and on the suet blocks – the heat of the pepper does not affect the birds – they do not feel the heat.   

To keep moths and bugs away from cupboards and in clothes; collect some remaining herbs, which may be still available, perhaps sage and lavender. Tie them into bunches with string and slip over a hangar in your closet or in a drawer. This week, I put bunches of dried sage in my closets and drawers—insects do not like fragrance and so the sage or lavender keeps insects away. 

A few bags of soil and mulch that you may have stored in the garage or shed will be useful after frost. Often the frost heaves plants above the soil and exposes the roots. The plants roots can be covered and protected with the soil and mulch, until they can be resettled again when spring arrives.   

When a plant is knocked askew by wind, ice or snow, do not be in a hurry to straighten it since, quite often, the plant will bounce back on its own. However, uprooted trees or shrubs should be straightened immediately then staked, their roots covered with soil and mulched, then resettle the plant in the spring. When snow is heavy on the branches of the evergreens, gently brush the snow off with a broom — with ‘gently’ being the operative word.   

When you receive or buy cut flowers during the holiday, of course you want them to last. To accomplish this, your vases need to be squeaky clean. If there is a build up of dirty residue that regular soap and water won’t budge, try adding a little coarse sand to dislodge the mucky residue, then use soap and rinse well.  For a narrow or globe-shaped vase ,use a bottlebrush.           

Poinsettias:

I receive many questions about how to keep Poinsettias alive.  I have a friend who has kept the same poinsettia alive for eight years. After blooming, she places the plant in a cool room, watering when the top of the soil feels dry, then in late May puts it, still in its container in the garden. In September, she brings it into her porch and begins gently watering. A combination I enjoy is poinsettias in a container with ivy and forced spring bulbs.  

I was always curious as to how Poinsettias got their name. Last year I heard an old story on that very subject.

‘In a tiny village in Mexico, the tradition on Christmas Eve was to put gifts before the Crèche at the Church. A poor young boy, who had nothing to offer, went outside and knelt in the snow praying for a gift to give the newborn king. Where he knelt, a beautiful plant with vivid scarlet leaves appeared beside him and the boy joyfully presented his gift to the Christ Child. Thus, Mexicans call the plant Flor de la Noche Buena (Flower of the Holy Night), many believe the plant resembles the Star of Bethlehem. 

Dr Joel Roberts Poinsett, the first minister to Mexico, brought the plant to the United States in the 1830’s, and it is for him that the plant is now named’.

On a delicious note to end my tips this year – I present my recipe for English trifle – a scrumptious dessert at Christmas.

ENGLISH TRIFLE

This dessert is made of layers, made over a three-day period; it requires this length of time for each layer to set. I use a nine-inch-tall glass bowl, as the appearance of this dessert is as mouth-watering as the taste.  

Ingredients:
2 pints of strawberries or raspberries (you can use frozen strawberries or raspberries, and omit the sugar)
2 tablespoons of sugar on fresh fruit 
1-package ladyfingers or sponge cake or pound cake
1-cup Harvey’s Bristol Cream Sherry (omit the sherry if you do not want the alcohol) instead use water to make the Jell-O 
1 small package strawberry or raspberry-flavored Jell-O
1 small package of vanilla custard mix or Birds English custard (see note)
1 -pint whipped cream

Combine washed and drained fresh strawberries/raspberries and sugar in a bowl and set aside at room temperature for about an hour.

In a 9-inch glass bowl, cover the bottom of the bowl with ladyfingers or sponge cake or pound cake, cut into 2-inch slices.  Drain the strawberries and reserve the juice.  Cover the cake with the fruit.

Add sherry to the reserved fruit juice to make one cup.  Prepare Jell-O using the fruit juice-sherry mixture as the cold-water part of the Jell-O mix, and hot water for the other part.  Pour the Jell-O over the fruit and cake layer, then refrigerate until it sets (usually about two hours or overnight).

When the Jell-O is set, prepare the custard and spread over the cake/fruit/Jell-O layer.  Refrigerate until custard is set.  

The day you serve the trifle spread a thick layer of unsweetened whipped cream over the top.    

If you are serving more people, repeat the cake, fruit, and Jell-O layers and top with the whipped cream.  

The nine-inch bowl serves 6 to 8.

Note: I use Birds English Custard mix, which can be found in specialty food stores and most supermarkets.  

 Have a wonderful Holiday and I’ll see you in your garden in January.  Be safe, well and enjoy!

About the author: Maureen Haseley-Jones is a member of a family of renowned horticultural artisans, whose landscaping heritage dates back to the 17th century. She is one of the founders, together with her son Ian, of, The English Lady Landscape and Home Company. Maureen and Ian are landscape designers and garden experts, who believe that everyone deserves to live in an eco-conscious environment and enjoy the pleasure that it brings. Maureen learned her design skills from both her mother and grandmother, and honed her horticultural and construction skills while working in the family nursery and landscape business in the U.K. Her formal horticultural training was undertaken at the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew in Surrey. 

We have been fortunate here in New England to have the pleasure of a lovely summer not too hot with adequate rain. Followed by a warm fall with more than enough rain into November to encourage healthy root growth for a vibrant spring next year.  I am keeping my fingers crossed that this weather foretells a mild winter – we can only hope, but then again, this is New England. 

With the warm fall we are enjoying, the soil is easy for digging, which to me means planting spring bulbs. So let us discuss daffodils …

Before handling these bulbs, I suggest wearing gloves as they can cause an irritation called a ‘lily rash’. Wearing gloves (I use the farmer’s soft leather gloves, which can be washed) plant the bulb at a depth of at least three times the size of the bulb with the pointed end up. Dig a trench a foot deep and scatter the bulbs in the trench at least nine inches down in the soil below the frost line. The bulbs can touch one another without a problem and by planting this way you will produce a dramatic show in spring.    

Tulip bulbs should be planted 12 inches down, getting them out of reach of rodents; tulips are the caviar of the rodent family. A suggestion to avoid this problem, before planting soak them in an organic deer repellent, and allow them to dry in the sun. This will deter other critters from eating them. Another protection is to line the planting hole with gravel.

In the spring when the bulb foliage is about four inches tall, apply  composted manure on the soil around the emerging bulb foliage. 

 I hear you saying, okay Maureen, I’m ready to plant the bulbs but what else is there to do in the garden”? Folks, there are many tasks to get you out in the garden this fall. 

The most important task is to apply a few inches of composted manure on all planted borders with a light layer of natural brown mulch on top. By doing this, you will continue to build the humus component in the soil.

Before the snow flies, any construction projects that you have in mind can be accomplished. This includes stonework and carpentry, building decks, and mending fences and building dry laid stonewalls, walkways, patios and digging ponds. This is definitely labor-intensive work, but at this time of year you won’t be uncomfortably hot. Make sure to stretch, take breaks and drink lots of water.  

When the weather is inclement, work under a construction tent when building walls, decks or digging ponds. Or build trellises, pergolas, arbors and fences in a shed or garage. The added advantage to the hard labor is that it keeps one in shape, especially with those fattening holiday meals looming on the horizon.  

If you are not able or do not want to do the work yourself, now is the time to call in a professional to do the work so that the project is completed before you plant in spring.  Each year, harsh winter wind damages much of the foliage of broadleaf evergreens. Rhododendrons, mountain laurel and azaleas are particularly vulnerable as cold wind drains them of much-needed moisture. Broadleaf evergreens with their shallow root system need a good store of water going into the winter. We have had reasonable rain but need more this fall; the rain helps the broadleaves to survive, as they will continue to lose water vapor through the cold months.  

Many of you have said that you notice the harsh winds of the past two winters caused the foliage on many rhododendrons to become brown and brittle. This happens when the soil freezes as plant roots cannot take up water to make up for moisture lost from water vapor. Dehydration is the result causing brown or wind burnt foliage.  

I don’t go overboard with wrapping large evergreens with burlap in winter. My own White Pines, Colorado blue spruce and Fraser firs are at least 50-years-old and well-established so no worries about damage. However, there are exceptions regardng plants that require a burlap wrap. Among those are evergreens planted in September, especially the Dwarf Alberta Spruce, which is extremely prone to wind burn. The Albertas should be covered with one layer of burlap, loosely wrapped.  

If the evergreens are close to a road and exposed to salt spray from snow trucks and ploughs, burlap these plants three feet up from the base may help to protect them. The best idea is not to plant them close to the road or plant salt-tolerant species like Juniper instead.

At the base of all evergreens. spread a three-inch layer of leaves or fine bark mulch, composted manure and peat around the base of the trunk. Following a heavy snowstorm when evergreen branches are weighed down with snow, gently brush the snow off with a broom.   

The leaves of the deciduous trees are falling quite quickly due to the recent wind and rain. Either you or a nimble person can climb a ladder and remove leaves from gutters and drainpipes. Water from clogged gutters and pipes falling onto foundation plantings cause damage to the plants below. But please be careful as there can be nasty injuries on falls from ladders. 

Peonies and Perennials:

After the first hard frost, cut Peonies down to within six inches from the ground, adding just a small amount of composted manure around the base.

I leave up my spent perennials until next April; I enjoy their soft grays, browns and yellows that enhance the muted hues of a winter landscape. Also our feathered friends appreciate the seed heads from the spent perennials. 

Any leftover vegetables in the vegetable garden should have been turned into the soil.  Add one part compost to three parts manure to the vegetable garden and plant a cover crop of buckwheat, alfalfa or white clover to minimize erosion. In spring, turn the cover crop into the soil, which has weathered into green manure.     

Take any of your power tools that require repair or sharpening into the shop at this time.  The repair shops are less busy now than in the spring.  Clean your tools off in a bucket of sand, the roughness of the sand will help clean off soil and debris, then oil and grease wooden handles to preserve them and prevent splinters. Hang them neatly on hooks in the garage or shed and not just “higgledy piggledy” in a pile! 

If you have an inground irrigation system, blow out the lines or have this done professionally. Also coil your hoses and store under cover and shut off outdoor faucets.

Put a bag of potting soil in the corner of the garage or basement, it will come in handy for repotting houseplants, bulb forcing or starting seeds in the spring.  A supply of peat, composted manure, sand and vermiculite is also useful.  Also put a bag of topsoil and some mulch under cover so that you can cover the shallow roots of evergreens if they become uncovered due to frost heave.  

Houseplants:

The best time to transplant houseplants is during the growing season beginning in April. However, if you need to repot some houseplants that have outgrown their containers, transplant to a clean pot only two inches larger than the original as plants like to be compact; add new potting soil and water.  

Container geraniums and begonias that you brought indoors should be placed in a sunny window to be enjoyed. In February, cut the plants down to about six inches from the soil surface and water them. 

Water houseplants, early in the day; not in the evening, as plants do not like to have wet feet at night.  Water them only when the top four inches of soil is dry to the touch. Once a month stand them in the bathtub or sink and spray the leaves with lukewarm water to remove any dust, dirt, white fly or aphids.  Do not get water on the leaves of African violets.  

Paper white Narcissus bulbs are great for forcing. I force these bulbs in pebbles; you may use potting soil if you wish; keep the pebbles or soil moist. Put the Narcissus bulbs in tall containers. I use tall clear glass vases, which help support the stems. I anchor the bulbs with pebbles, and keep the pebbles moist, then place the containers in a cool, dark place. As soon as you see root growth and the beginnings of leaf growth, bring the bowls into medium light, always keep the pebbles or soil moist at all times. 

I force about a dozen narcissus at a time and the remainder I store in the vegetable keeper in the refrigerator in a brown paper bag away from food. I bring them out and pot them up a few at a time so that I have a succession of fragrant bloom throughout the winter.  

Grow pots of parsley, dill, basil and other herbs in a sunny window, which offers delicious fresh herbs for cooking and salads through winter. 

Roses:

Remove any dead or diseased leaves from Roses and pick up any Rose debris off the ground.  If you notice disease like black spot in the debris, do not put it in your compost pile; throw it away in the garbage.  Mound soil, composted manure and mulch around the base of the Roses. The mounding helps maintain a constant temperature around the Rose. 

If the Roses are grown in an exposed area, which makes them vulnerable to drying winter winds, cover the plant with one loose layer of burlap or use a rose cone.  Make sure all climber Roses or other Vines are securely fastened to the fence or trellis.  

Set up your bird feeders where you can enjoy the birds, placed near to some low shrubs or small trees sheltered from the wind; birds like to flit from these protected spots to the feeder. Offer a varied menu for different birds.  Birds enjoy a recipe I received from my stepmother in England; a lump of suet embedded with peanuts or try hollowed-out pinecones filled with peanut butter.  

To prevent squirrels from raiding the feeders, set up a baffle and sprinkle cayenne pepper in the birdseed and on the suet feeders; the heat does not bother the birds and squirrels will stay clear.  I am aware that hungry squirrels can jump vertically five feet; but don’t worry if you happen to be a squirrel lover; they always manage to get food from some feeders.

This is the time of year when we gardeners can pause and with the previous season still fresh in your mind, say, “this worked”, and “that I will never try again”.  It is worthwhile to take a leisurely stroll around the garden before the snow falls. Look at the garden, squarely and soberly, making notes as you walk to plan for next season. Plan as you stroll, writing down your impressions, making sketches and lists and save them for your winter armchair gardening. 

Enjoy the Thanksgiving holiday and I’ll see you in your garden next month.

 Feel free to e-mail me with gardening questions at MaureenHaseleyJones@gmail.com

About the author: Maureen Haseley-Jones is a member of a family of renowned horticultural artisans, whose landscaping heritage dates back to the 17th century. She is one of the founders, together with her son Ian, of, The English Lady Landscape and Home Company. Maureen and Ian are landscape designers and garden experts, who believe that everyone deserves to live in an eco-conscious environment and enjoy the pleasure that it brings. Maureen learned her design skills from both her mother and grandmother, and honed her horticultural and construction skills while working in the family nursery and landscape business in the U.K. Her formal horticultural training was undertaken at the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew in Surrey. 

Rain through August and September has been quite plentiful, that said, our gardens need rain as do our reservoirs.   

In the meantime, if you are planning to plant evergreens; late September going into October is the best time to plant evergreens in our zone. Evergreens planted now can begin to establish strong roots before winter and providing them with adequate water is essential.

I suggest making a hole in the soil with an iron stake or other piercing instrument and feeding the hose into the hole and allowing water to reach the roots in a slow manner for at least a half hour after planting and continue to do so a few times each week until the ground freezes in November. Cover the earth around the plants with a light layer of composted manure and mulch. However, do not mulch right up to the bark of the plants as this encourages rodents to nest and gnaw on the bark of the plants. 

HYDRANGEAS

I receive many questions on pruning Hydrangeas, with fellow gardeners asking me, ‘Maureen, why did my Hydrangeas not bloom this year’? The reason that Hydrangeas do not bloom is that gardeners prune them at the wrong time. If you feel that your Hydrangea macrophylla has become too large and requires pruning, then go ahead and prune them in the first few weeks of September. The reason for so doing is that Hydrangeas set their buds for next season by the end of September; pruning any later will cut off those buds, which will negate any chance of bloom for next season or even the following season.  

Prune any old woody stems that have not bloomed well and any weak new shoots.  After pruning, apply a few inches of composted manure, and some peat, followed by a top dressing of natural brown bark mulch. The peat aids acidity in the soil, which is necessary as Hydrangeas may become chlorotic if the soil is too alkaline. By the way, chlorotic means abnormal reduction or loss of normal green coloration of the leaves of plants.

On another note, Hydrangeas do not like to be transplanted; transplanting them can result in little to no bloom for many seasons. For that reason, I suggest when planting new Hydrangeas, make sure they are at least five feet apart, so they have room to grow and to receive adequate ventilation and this way they will never need to be transplanted. 

This fall, as you contemplate your landscape, think on the past season as to what worked for you and what you will never try again. 

Unfortunately, mint has taken over the border beneath my Franklinia tree. Many years ago, my friend Roz was kindly lending a hand in the garden and planted mint in the garden instead of a large container that I placed for that very purpose. I was busy with other garden chores at that moment, so by the time I noticed the error, six months later, the mint was running rampant among the blue myrtle edging the borders. So folks, please take note that mint is extremely invasive and should only be planted in containers where its wayward habits can be controlled.

‘It is said that ‘a gardener’s work is never done’, but now with the season’s hard labor behind you, take a break. Sit outside and inhale the late garden fragrances and allow Mother Nature to anchor and relax you. 

In the early morning I enjoy sitting on my patio near my herb garden, inhaling the fragrance of the sage, which I will snip later to dry indoors and use in my recipes. I will also gather extra sage and lavender, which I will tie with string into small bunches to hang in my closets, as Lavender and Sage are natural moth repellents. That being said, a few Lavender bunches are tucked into my drawers to keep moths from devouring my woolens; this works fantastically as insects do not like fragrance. 

VEGETABLE GARDENS

In your vegetable garden, sow spinach for spring harvest and sow a cover crop like winter rye, which can be dug in next spring together with composted manure as green manure. Green manure produces an excellent growing environment for next year’s crop of vegetables. 

Now is the time to get your fall compost pile cooking with the last of the grass clippings, spent perennials, leaves and small woody twigs.  

Now is also the time to dig up, divide and replant overgrown perennials. Follow this method every three to four years to ensure vibrant bloom from these plants. Never plant or transplant any division or transplant any deeper in the soil than it is now or any deeper than the plant sits in the pot.

In the less hectic pace of fall, early autumn is the time to re-think your gardens. The garden’s pre-winter grooming will wait for a few weeks. Or you may feel that you would like to have a professional design as you have noticed that your borders are not living up to your expectations. 

If that is so, then contact someone whom you trust to create a plan in the fall and winter, which can then be phased in beginning next spring. Engage someone who will listen to your thoughts and stay within your budget. I will give you a suggestion for a plantsman and that is my son Ian whose company and website is LandscapesByIan.com. I know you would enjoy speaking with him and the saying goes, ’The apple does not fall far from the tree!’ I am sure you will enjoy meeting with him and checking out his creative talents. 

PEONIES

September is the month to plant and transplant Peonies. Do not plant them deeply or they will not bloom, that means have just enough soil to hold them erect with the ‘pink eyes’ on the roots barely covered. Plant them with a light application of composted manure around the plant. In November, following the first hard frost, cut down the Peony foliage to about four inches from the ground. 

AUTUMN COLORS, HEALTHY SOIL and SPENT PERENNIALS

In a few weeks, the bright vibrancy of autumn color will appear on the Maples. Fall’s brilliant autumn finery is the last hurrah, before winter sets in. Climbing up the red milk shed near the barn, the buds on the white autumn clematis are beginning to unfurl and in the herb garden, autumn crocus, asters and sedum are taking their curtain calls. 

For your soil to remain healthy, add a light layer of composted manure to all the borders now or in early October, together with a two-inch layer of fine bark mulch around all newly-planted and transplanted perennials and shrubs. With the application of the manure and mulch you are continuing to build the humus component, which will ensure a rich growing environment for spring and also protect the plants from winter’s harsh conditions.  

I do not cut down my spent perennials but leave them up for the birds; the ripened seed heads are a delicious treat for them to peck at. Following the vibrancy of summer bloom, I enjoy the softer subtle colors of gray, brown and yellow of the spent perennials and ornamental grasses blending naturally with the muted winter landscape, which to me offers a resting of the senses. 

FALL PLANTING

Early- to mid-October is a great time to be planting. The benefits of fall planting for trees, shrubs and perennials gives them a head start with root development over those planted in the spring.  This is especially so when we experience a late spring when planting cannot begin until late April. 

In New England’s fall, the cooler temperatures and still warm soil encourages the plants to direct their energy to produce strong roots.   

The following trees are not good candidates for fall planting: 

Birches, Larches, Gingko, Oaks, Magnolia, and all flowering fruit and flowering trees as well as the Eastern Red Cedar.  These trees have fleshy roots and their feeder roots are not large when young and take time to establish and therefore are susceptible to frost heave.

Some perennials that do not like to be planted in fall are Artemisia, Lambs Ears, Foxglove, Penstemon, Anemone, Campanula, Kniphofia, Lupines, Scabiosa, Ferns and Grasses. 

Plant garlic this month for harvest next June – garlic is the antibiotic of the garden. Plant it under fruit trees to avoid scab and root disease, near to ponds or standing water to control mosquito larvae or pour garlic water into ponds, bird baths and fountains to deter adult mosquitoes. 

BARGAINS

This is a good time to pick up end-of-season plant bargains. Most nurseries and garden centers have lowered their prices so they do not have to winter plants over in the nursery. If you do purchase a few plants, keep your eyes open for the following problems:

> POTBOUND PLANTS – check the bottom of the pot to see if the roots are growing through the holes.  If not, gently tap the plant out of the container to see if it has a network of overlapping roots that wrap around the root ball.  It is possible to salvage a root bound plant, which is suffering from water and nutrient deficiencies over the summer, but it will be slow to root. Before you plant this one in your garden, cut the encircling roots – the roots will now be shorter and will take to rooting easier. 

> DISEASED PLANTS – plants that have been in containers all summer and have been fed high nitrogen fertilizers are easy targets for pests and diseases.  Check for spots on the foliage, wilted or curling leaves and discolored roots. As well as visible signs of pest damage and infestation such as webbing or sticky residue on foliage.  Not only would these plants do poorly in the garden but could infect your other plants and the soil.  Soil born diseases are the most difficult to deal with.

> BADLY SHAPED PLANTS – Badly shaped plants are the ‘Charlie Brown’ Christmas trees of the plant world, the unwanted orphans that have been passed over year after year; these are the runts of the litter!  Do not set yourself up for disappointment looking at an ugly tree or shrub just to save a few dollars.

> MIS-LABLED PLANTS – At the end of the season many plant tags have been lost or mixed up, which means you are likely to get a perennial with flowers that are not the color you expected. Or you may buy a deciduous tree or shrub when you were looking for an evergreen variety.  Stick to the plants that are part of large displays of identically labeled plants or with labels so firmly attached that look like they have been there for a while.

With all the above-mentioned plants – always add composted manure around the plant and do not plant any deeper than it is in its pot or burlap wrapping. Always wear gloves when working with manure; there is bacteria in the manure – great for the soil but not healthy for you. 

Please note that the bargain you get is often not worth the discount price. 

NEW LAWN OR PATCH SEEDING

September and early October is an excellent time to plant new grass, the young grass plants will have the advantage over weeds. Do not buy cheap seed, you reap what you sow! 

Gently de-thatch the areas that you wish to overseed or patch. Do not use the large thatching machines, which can damage existing grass. Add some composted manure to the area, broadcast the seed and cover the newly seeded grass area with salt hay (free from weed seed). Do not allow the soil surface to dry out, keep it moist. Water gently, and do not saturate the area or the seed will wash away. 

When the grass appears, stay off it, do not mow and leave the salt hay to rot. Next spring, a healthy lawn will emerge and if there are a few bare patches in April, you can fill in the bare spots. 

SPRING BULBS

I hope your spring bulb orders are in by now. Be adventurous this year and go for masses of a single color for the greatest impact. No matter how small your planting area, it is the intensity that counts, with two or three dozen red Tulips or a hundred Daffodils planted on your woodland edge. 

Buying daffodils in large numbers is less expensive, the bulbs are usually smaller – this is not a problem as daffodil bulbs grow larger each year. Even though many say the spacing between these larger bulbs should be six inches, there is no reason they cannot touch.  

Put some composted manure or bulb food on the soil where the bulbs are planted. Make sure you plant the Daffodils eight inches below the frost line, with the pointed end up. Wear gloves when you plant bulbs as they have a skin irritant, which may cause a rash.

If you cannot plant your bulbs when you receive them, store them in a cool, dry place in paper bags.  The best time to plant spring bulbs in the Northeast is the end of October to the middle of November.

Lily of the Valley can be transplanted this month, but wear gloves because there is toxicity in this plant.  

Dig up your gladioli corms, Calla bulbs, Elephant Ear bulbs and Dahlia tubers when the foliage turns yellow.  Lay them in the sun to “cure” and store them in a cool, dry dark place. When you dig the Dahlia tubers, do not pull them, pulling can break the tubers. 

HOUSEPLANTS & STONEWORK

In early September after their summer sojourn outdoors, take your houseplants indoors and wash the foliage gently and repot with new potting soil into a clean container. Repot those plants that have outgrown their pots to a clean container that is only one size larger. 

Fall and early winter is a great time to do stonework – dry laid paths, walls and patios. As well as repairing fences, arbors and pergolas and build decks. Paint wooden outdoor furniture with eco-conscious paint before putting them undercover for winter.    

September is a gardener’s paradise; the air is cooler, the soil easy to work and you will not overheat with the effort. Stay awhile in your garden and enjoy the comforting fragrance of fall.       

I’ll see you in your garden next time.  Feel free to e-mail me with gardening questions at MaureenHaseleyJones@gmail.com

About the author: Maureen Haseley-Jones is a member of a family of renowned horticultural artisans, whose landscaping heritage dates back to the 17th century. She is one of the founders, together with her son Ian, of, The English Lady Landscape and Home Company. Maureen and Ian are landscape designers and garden experts, who believe that everyone deserves to live in an eco-conscious environment and enjoy the pleasure that it brings. Maureen learned her design skills from both her mother and grandmother, and honed her horticultural and construction skills while working in the family nursery and landscape business in the U.K. Her formal horticultural training was undertaken at the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew in Surrey.